West Ridge of Forbidden Peak Climb Itinerary
Day 1
Gear check and key climbing skills. Our program begins with a 6:30 a.m. gear check at the Seattle office, where we’ll review all equipment, ensure proper fit and function, and address any last-minute questions or concerns. From there, we drive north to Mt. Erie, an outstanding venue to review and practice the fundamentals of rock climbing. Perched above the Puget Sound, Mt. Erie offers stunning views of the San Juan Islands, Olympic Mountains, and several Cascade volcanoes—a truly spectacular setting for our training day.
Throughout the day, we’ll cover key climbing skills including belaying, rappelling, lowering, descending, knot tying, footwork, and movement techniques. Expect to spend several hours developing and refining these technical abilities, which will be essential for the climbs ahead. In the evening, we’ll make our way to Marblemount, where we’ll car camp in the lush forest along Cascade River Road near the trailhead.
Day 2
After a short drive to the scenic Cascade Pass trailhead, we begin our ascent on a steep, well-traveled trail that winds through lush forest and alongside cascading creeks. The climb brings us into the stunning expanse of Boston Basin—widely regarded as one of Washington’s most iconic alpine valleys. Once above tree line, we’ll select a campsite based on current weather and route conditions, with options ranging from the lower basin meadows to higher alpine benches. We’ll rest up and enjoy a leisurely afternoon taking in the incredible views of Johannesburg Mountain and the surrounding peaks.
Day 3
Summit Day. We’ll begin with a classic alpine start, setting out in the early hours of the morning. The West Ridge offers several pitches of enjoyable rock climbing, with mostly moderate terrain leading to a short, more challenging pitch near the summit. The climbing is sustained and engaging, ideal for those with prior rock experience and solid fitness. From the top, the descent follows the same ridge and involves a combination of downclimbing and rappelling—an exciting and exposed journey back toward camp. Guides may lower climbers through select sections to ensure efficiency and safety. After returning to camp, we’ll relax and enjoy a well-earned rest before our hike out the next day.
Day 4
Return to Seattle. After a well-earned night’s rest, we’ll enjoy a relaxed breakfast—ideally with morning alpenglow lighting up the peaks we’ve just climbed. From camp, we pack up and make our way back down the trail to the Cascade Pass trailhead, taking in the final views of this incredible alpine basin. This day also serves as a flexible summit or weather day, as conditions in the Pacific Northwest can change quickly. Having this buffer greatly increases our chances of success on this coveted Cascades classic, allowing us to summit and hike out in a single push if conditions allow.
Itinerary subject to change due to conditions.
I enjoyed the trek very much. Terrific location, outstanding guides, nice itinerary. Trip is fabulous.