Climbing Mont Blanc Expedition Itinerary
I have done a lot of international climbing trips and this truly exceeded my expectations.
Actually difficult to think of anything to improve, it was just perfect. Thanks so much to my guide and the entire team behind!
Day 1
Arrive in Geneva, Switzerland airport and take shuttle to Chamonix (around 1 hour). Spend night at a hotel in Chamonix, France.
• Chamonix altitude: 1,035 m/3,395 ft.
Day 2
Meet at 7:00 a.m. for breakfast and orientation, followed by a check of our equipment. Afterward we will go into downtown Chamonix and pick up any last-minute items along with lunch to go. We will then head up to the Aiguilles Rouges for some alpine rock and snow climbing training. We will ascend the Flegere cable car to almost 2,400 m. A short 40-minute walk brings us to the snow access gulley at the foot of the Crouches. We will climb on the rocky ridge, working on our footwork and movement skills during the day. The descent back down brings us by an alpine lake, “Lac Blanc,” and a café where we can grab some coffee or the tart d’ jour. This training day will help set our climbers up for success later in the week on the Mont Blanc. We will spend the evening in Chamonix.
• Chamonix altitude: 1,035 m/3,395 ft.
• Top of Flegere cable car: 2,400 m/7,875 ft.
• Top of Crouches Traverse: 2,837 m/9,307 ft.
• Vertical gain during the day: 1,802 m/5,912 ft.
• Vertical gain climbing: 437 m/1,433 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 6-7 hours from cable car back to the hotel
Day 3
The next three days we will spend climbing and working on our skills on the Gran Paradiso (4,061 m). The Gran Paradiso is the highest peak in Italy and a worthy climb on its own. After a gear check in the morning, we will take a taxi through the famous Mont Blanc tunnel to Gran Paradiso National Park. Once inside Grad Paradiso National Park and at the trailhead, we will start working our way up to the Chabod mountain hut. It is takes about 3–4 hours to reach the Chabod Hut at 2,750 m and we often see ibex on the trail. Once at the hut there are incredibly scenic views of our next day’s climbing objective. In the afternoon, our guide team will continue to work on climbing skills and go over the plan for our summit attempt on the Gran Paradiso.
• Chamonix altitude: 1,035 m/3,395 ft.
• Gran Paradiso trailhead altitude: 1,833 m/6,013 ft.
• Chabod mountain hut: 2,750 m/9,022 ft.
• Vertical gain climbing: 913 m/2,995 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 3–4 hours from the trailhead to the Chabod Hut
Day 4
We will wake up early for an alpine start on the Gran Paradiso. We will have breakfast in the hut and depart shortly thereafter. The ascent of the Gran Paradiso is around 1,300 m from the hut. Along the ascent, the guides will continue to work on cramponing, ice axe use, glacier travel, and more skills to help increase our foundation before heading to the Mont Blanc. The ascent to the summit from the hut takes between 4.5–5.5 hours. After reaching the summit, we will retrace our steps back down to the Chabod Hut and spend the night. Spending the second night at this elevation will help with our acclimatizing process. An ascent of the Gran Paradiso really helps our climbers prepare for the summit portion of Mont Blanc. It is a dress rehearsal for the Mont Blanc ascent and the second toughest day of program.
• Chabod Hut altitude: 2,750 m/9,022 ft.
• Summit of Grand Paradiso: 4,061 m/13,323 ft.
• Vertical gain climbing: 1,311 m/4,301 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 4.5–5.5 hours uphill, 2–3 hours back to the hut, 6–8.5 hours total
Day 5
After a semi-late breakfast at the hut (7 a.m.) we will start making our way back to Chamonix, France. This day is designed to be a rest day and let our bodies recover after our recent ascent of the Gran Paradiso. Our goal is to be back in Chamonix for lunch. In the afternoon, we will go over equipment and gear needed for the Mont Blanc ascent. We will spend the night in our hotel in Chamonix.
• Chabod Hut altitude: 2,750 m/9,022 ft.
• Gran Paradiso trailhead altitude: 1,833 m/ 6,013 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 2–3 hours on a trail back to the trailhead from the Chabod Hut
Day 6
Before leaving the hotel, we will do a gear check review to make sure we have all the adequate equipment and clothing for our ascent of Mont Blanc. We will ride the Bellevue Telepherique from Les Houches. Once at the top of the tram, we board the Tramway du Mont Blanc to the Nid d’Aigle (2,370 m/7,775 ft.) From there we follow a main path on scree, which divides the Glacier de la Griaz from the Glacier de Tete Rousse. It takes approximately 2.5 hours to reach the Tete Rousse Hut (3,187 m/10,456 ft.) This evening we will sleep at the Tete Rousse Hut.
• Chamonix altitude: 1,035 m/3,395 ft.
• Top of Tramway du Mont Blanc: 2,370 m/7,775 ft.
• Tete Rousse Hut: 3,187 m/ 10,456 ft.
• Vertical gain during the day: 2,152 m/7,065 ft.
• Vertical gain climbing: 817 m/2,681 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 2–2.5 hours of walking to the hut on a trail
Day 7
Breakfast and leave the hut for an alpine start make our ascent up Mont Blanc. From the hut, we find ourselves ascending the Grand Couloir, which is approximately 600 m. The upper part of the Couloir can be melted out and could involve some moderate and steep scrambling over rocks. From the top of the Grand Couloir, we make our way to the Gouter Hut (3,817 m/12,522 ft.). We can take a long break inside the Gouter Hut. From the hut, we travel on glaciated terrain along a beautiful ridgeline towards the summit (4,808 m/15,775 ft.). We aim to be on the summit early to mid-morning. Enjoying the views from the summit of the highest peak in Western Europe, here we take a break. We then retrace our route back to the hut and stay at Tete Rousse Hut (3,187 m/10,456 ft.) that evening.
• Tete Rousse Hut: 3,187 m/10,456 ft.
• Gouter Hut: 3,817 m/12,522 ft.
• Mont Blanc Summit: 4,808 m/15,775 ft.
• Vertical gain during the day: 1,621 m/5,319 ft.
• Vertical gain climbing: 1,621 m/5,319 ft.
• Travel time climbing: Typical time to reach the summit is between 6–7 hours from the Tete Rousse Hut. Descent time is around 4–4.5 hours back to the Tete Rousse Hut. Total climbing time 10–12 hours, round-trip.
Day 8
Descend back down the trail to the Tramway du Mont Blanc retracing our steps back to the valley. Dinner is in town that evening. If the weather and conditions are wrong on Day 7, not allowing us to make a summit attempt, we try to make a summit attempt on Day 8, if weather and conditions permit, and then descend the same day. We will spend the night in our hotel in Chamonix.
• Tete Rousse Hut: 3,187 m/10,456 ft.
• Top of Tramway du Mont Blanc: 2,370 m/7,775 ft.
• Chamonix altitude: 1,035 m/3,395 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 1.5 hours to descend back on the trail to the Tramway du Mont Blanc.
Day 9
Shuttle back to Geneva and fly home.
*Guides might change the Itinerary due to risk management, weather, and climbing conditions on Mont Blanc. While the Gouter Hut is excellent, it is often difficult for large groups and this is why we use the Tete Rousse.
Monte Rosa Itinerary
Please note that if Mont Blanc conditions are unfavorable or hut spaces cannot be secured, we will adjust the itinerary to include a climb of Monte Rosa beginning on Day 6 of your expedition. The itinerary for Day 1 – 5 will remain the same.
Day 1
Arrive in Geneva, Switzerland airport and take shuttle to Chamonix (around 1 hour). Spend night at a hotel in Chamonix, France.
• Chamonix altitude: 1,035 m/3,395 ft.
Day 2
Meet at 7:00 a.m. for breakfast and orientation, followed by a check of our equipment. Afterward we will go into downtown Chamonix and pick up any last-minute items along with lunch to go. We will then head up to the Aiguilles Rouges for some alpine rock and snow climbing training. We will ascend the Flegere cable car to almost 2,400 m. A short 40-minute walk brings us to the snow access gulley at the foot of the Crouches. We will climb on the rocky ridge, working on our footwork and movement skills during the day. The descent back down brings us by an alpine lake, “Lac Blanc,” and a café where we can grab some coffee or the tart d’ jour. This training day will help set our climbers up for success later in the week on the Mont Blanc. We will spend the evening in Chamonix.
• Chamonix altitude: 1,035 m/3,395 ft.
• Top of Flegere cable car: 2,400 m/7,875 ft.
• Top of Crouches Traverse: 2,837 m/9,307 ft.
• Vertical gain during the day: 1,802 m/5,912 ft.
• Vertical gain climbing: 437 m/1,433 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 6-7 hours from cable car back to the hotel
Day 3
The next three days we will spend climbing and working on our skills on the Gran Paradiso (4,061 m). The Gran Paradiso is the highest peak in Italy and a worthy climb on its own. After a gear check in the morning, we will take a taxi through the famous Mont Blanc tunnel to Gran Paradiso National Park. Once inside Grad Paradiso National Park and at the trailhead, we will start working our way up to the Chabod mountain hut. It is takes about 3–4 hours to reach the Chabod Hut at 2,750 m and we often see ibex on the trail. Once at the hut there are incredibly scenic views of our next day’s climbing objective. In the afternoon, our guide team will continue to work on climbing skills and go over the plan for our summit attempt on the Gran Paradiso.
• Chamonix altitude: 1,035 m/3,395 ft.
• Gran Paradiso trailhead altitude: 1,833 m/6,013 ft.
• Chabod mountain hut: 2,750 m/9,022 ft.
• Vertical gain climbing: 913 m/2,995 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 3–4 hours from the trailhead to the Chabod Hut
Day 4
We will wake up early for an alpine start on the Gran Paradiso. We will have breakfast in the hut and depart shortly thereafter. The ascent of the Gran Paradiso is around 1,300 m from the hut. Along the ascent, the guides will continue to work on cramponing, ice axe use, glacier travel, and more skills to help increase our foundation before heading to the Mont Blanc. The ascent to the summit from the hut takes between 4.5–5.5 hours. After reaching the summit, we will retrace our steps back down to the Chabod Hut and spend the night. Spending the second night at this elevation will help with our acclimatizing process. An ascent of the Gran Paradiso really helps our climbers prepare for the summit portion of Mont Blanc. It is a dress rehearsal for the Mont Blanc ascent and the second toughest day of program.
• Chabod Hut altitude: 2,750 m/9,022 ft.
• Summit of Grand Paradiso: 4,061 m/13,323 ft.
• Vertical gain climbing: 1,311 m/4,301 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 4.5–5.5 hours uphill, 2–3 hours back to the hut, 6–8.5 hours total
Day 5
After a semi-late breakfast at the hut (7 a.m.) we will start making our way back to Chamonix, France. This day is designed to be a rest day and let our bodies recover after our recent ascent of the Gran Paradiso. Our goal is to be back in Chamonix for lunch. In the afternoon, we will go over equipment and gear needed for the Mont Blanc ascent. We will spend the night in our hotel in Chamonix.
• Chabod Hut altitude: 2,750 m/9,022 ft.
• Gran Paradiso trailhead altitude: 1,833 m/ 6,013 ft.
• Travel time climbing: 2–3 hours on a trail back to the trailhead from the Chabod Hut
OPTION 1, Monte Rosa via the Switzerland Side
Day 6
We travel to Zermatt (1620m) today. We have a relaxed start to the day and make any final adjustments for our ascent of Monte Rosa. We then take the Gornergrat Railway to Rotenboden (2815m) and walk for an easy hour on a good footpath to the first set of ladders leading us down to the glacier. We cross dry glaciers and moraines, sometimes requiring crampons, to the edge of the Grenzgletscher where a climbers trail takes us up a final steep climb to the Monte Rosa Hut (2883m). There is a final, steep ascent up to the modernized and comfortable Monte Rosa Hut. The hut terrasse offers an otherworldly 360° view from the Monte rosa, past the 4000m chain of Lyskamm, Castore, Pollox, all four summits of the Breithorn Massif, and finally to the Matterhorn. Many people visit the Monterosa hut just for this view (and a plate of rösti).
- Rotenboden train station: 2815m/9235 ft.
- Monte Rosa Hut: 2,883 m/ 9,459 ft.
- Vertical gain during the day: 500m/1640 ft.
- Travel time climbing: Typical time to reach the hut is approximately 4-4.5 hours
Day 7
After a pre-dawn alpine start we begin our ascent of the Dufourspitze, the highest point of the Monte Rosa Massif. As we exit the hut in darkness, aided by starlight and the headlamps on our helmets, we wind our way through boulders and rocky slabs, for approximately 2 hours, to the Monte Rosa Glacier. We reach this glacier just as the sun touches the tops of the Matterhorn, Breithorn, Weisshorn and the Dent Blanche. At first, this glacier is very complex, presenting a maze of crevasses to navigate around. This obstacle eventually gives way to the easier slopes. From here, a broad slope leads us to a col, known as Sattel (4359m), marking the start of the final 300 meters of the west ridge. The character of the route dramatically changes; from open glacial terrain, the route now follows an exposed ridge of rock, snow and ice leading us up to the summit at 4634 meters. The Dufourspitze is a fine viewpoint. The descent is made by the route of ascent. We can enjoy a well-earned late lunch once we arrive back at the Monte Rosa Hut, followed by a relaxing afternoon/evening and a second night.
- Monte Rosa Hut: 2,883 m/ 9,459 ft.
- Monte Rosa Summit: 4634m/ 15,203 ft.
- Vertical gain during the day: 1760m/ 5775 ft.
- Travel time climbing: Typical time to reach the summit is between 6–7 hours’ time is around 4–4.5 hours back to the Monte Rosa Hut. Total climbing time 10–12 hours, round-trip.
Day 8
After breakfast, we descend the trail, cross the Grenzgletscher, and return via a gentle climbing trail to the Gornergrat’s Roteboden station(3089) to catch our train down to Zermatt (1608m). Once back in Zermatt, the team will have lunch before a return to Chamonix for a summit celebration dinner.
- Monte Rosa Hut: 2,883 m/ 9,459 ft.
- Zermatt: 1,620 m/ 5,314 ft.
Day 9
Shuttle back to Geneva and fly home.
OPTION 2, Monte Rosa via the Italian Side
Day 6
We travel to Gressoney, Italy (1600m) today. We have a relaxed start to the day and make any final adjustments for our ascent of Monte Rosa. From Stafal, the highest part of Gressoney, we will take a combination of trams up to Punta Indren (3275). From this high altitude lift station, a hiking trail winds past drying glacial remnants, moraine, and crags directly below the south face of Punta Giordani (4046). We take shelter at either the Rifugio Mantova (3498m) or Rifugio Gnifetti (3647).Tomorrows’ principal objective is the Punta Gnifetti (aka Signalkuppe), which at 4553m – is the 6th highest peak in the Alps. The Monte Rosa Massif is a playground for 4000m summit-hunters, and fast teams can visit multiple other summits during tomorrow’s big day – including the Ludwigshoe (4342), Balmenhorn (4167), and the airy Parrotspitze (4434).
- Tramway station: 2970m/9750 ft.
- Gnifetti Hut: 3596 m/ 11,800ft.
- Vertical gain during the day: 626m/2050 ft.
- Travel time climbing: Typical time to reach the hut is approximately 2 hours.
Day 7
After a predawn alpine start, we step from the hut onto the Glacier de Lys. Aided by ropes, crampons, and head lamps, we climb the Lys glacier towards the col de Lys (where we pass from Italy to Switzerland). Most groups will aim for Punta Gnifetti (aka Signalkuppe) as their primary target. The Zumsteinspitze (4562m)– just beyond – is often climbed in addition to Punta Gnifetti because it offers stunning views of the entire Grenzgletscher cirque from the south face of the Dufourspitze, to our north, to the chain of 4000m peaks to our south and west: The chain extends from Lyskamm to the Castore and Pollux, then past the Breithorn Massif, and eventually to the Matterhorn! For those of us who make the top of Punta Gniffetti Margherita hut – the highest hut in the alps, we can enjoy a hot soup or hot chocolate to ward off the cold and altitude before heading back down the glacier (and maybe add on another summit or two).
- Gnifetti Hut: 3596 m/ 11,800ft.
- Gnifetti Peak: 4550m/ 15,203 ft.
- Vertical gain during the day: 1760m/ 14930 ft.
- Travel time climbing: Typical time to reach the summit is between 6–7 hours’ time is around 4–4.5 hours back to the Gnifetti Hut. Total climbing time 10–12 hours, round-trip.
Day 8
Descend back down the trail and return trek to Gressoney (1600m). Once back in Gressoney the team will have lunch and return to Chamonix for a summit celebration dinner.
Day 9
Shuttle back to Geneva and fly home.
Tremendous experience but the weather was not our friend so failed in our Mt Blanc and Matterhorn Objectives but achieved in my objectives of spending quality time with my son and getting him hooked further on mountaineering while keeping him safe. Jonathon was very focused and tried hard to ensure we had a good experience […]