Mount Shuksan Climb Itinerary
Upon sign up, we will send you our richly detailed, pre-trip information package.
Day before climb
Gear check- mandatory. A thorough gear check ensures everyone is fully equipped and prepared to depart the next morning. Rental gear is fitted and packed at this time. Location: Alpine Ascents’ Seattle office, 10:00am. Duration: Approximately 2 hours.
Review the functionality of each piece of gear, packing our backpacks, wilderness ethics and LNT principles.
7:00am meeting at the trailhead. From the trailhead (approximately 2500 ft. elevation) climbers will make their way up the trail to Shannon Ridge at approximately 4600 feet. After another 2 miles along a flat crest through patches of timber and meadows, the crest leads to a sloping mountainside. Teams can choose to make camp here (approximately 5400 ft. elevation) or continue hiking an additional 1,000ft for more camping opportunities at the edge of the Sulfide Glacier.
Instruction includes nutrition, hydration, rest steps, pressure breathing, and temperature management. Camp set-up, cooking in the mountains and in depth Leave No Trace will be discussed. During rest periods we will have short discussions on mountain physiology and mountain environments.
Climbers will spend the day learning and refreshing mountain travel techniques including cramponing, rope travel, self-arrest, and other techniques necessary to make a summit attempt on the third day. With spectacular views of the North Cascades from camp, this is sure to be a memorable, informative, and relatively restful day in preparation for the summit bid!
Discuss safety aspects of our climb, rope management, knots, anchors, crampon technique, self-arrest and glacier travel. Afternoon topics might include: local history, glaciology, mountain weather, along with map and compass.
Summit day! To ensure safety and optimum traveling conditions, we begin with an early morning wake-up to bring us close to the summit by sunrise. We will cross the gentle Sulphide Glacier until we reach the exciting crux of our route, the 700 foot rock summit pyramid. This is where we will begin belayed and pitched climbing up the steep central gully. Depending on the time of year, the gully is usually a fun mix of snow climbing, easy rock, and plentiful ledges. From the summit, climbers will be rewarded with stunning views of Mt. Baker and the surrounding peaks of the North Cascades.
After celebrating this truly memorable summit and taking photos, we’ll carefully descend the summit pyramid via a series of lowers, rappels, and down climbing until we reach the easier terrain of the Sulphide Glacier. Once we reach our camp, we’ll pack up and descend back to the trailhead.
This day allows us to implement and enforce what we have learned in the previous days.
Itinerary subject to change due to conditions.
Our Mt. Shuksan climb was fantastic. The views were incredible, the weather was perfect, and our guides were professional, personable, and highly skilled. Yes! I was particularly impressed by our lead guide, Seth, and my guide for summit day, Connor.