The weather pattern has shifted and summer has finally arrived in the Cascades. The last few days have seen sunny skies across the Cascade crest allowing for teams across the state to summit.
Tahoma (Mt Rainier) has had the best weather of the year so far with sunny skies and warm temperatures. The Paradise annual snow stake has lost 16” of snow in the past 7 days, and with the forecast we anticipate more snow lost in the upcoming week. Teams this week switched from the winter route up to Camp Muir to the summer route, ascending via Pebble Creek. There is still ample snow at Paradise and mountain boots are being used straight from the parking lot. On the Muir route, teams are ascending the Ingraham Direct and guides are reporting the route to be in good condition with an average time to the summit around 4.5hrs from high camp. On the Emmons route, teams are encountering snow on the way to Glacier Basin within the first hour of travel. Glacier Basin up to Camp Schurman is fully snow covered with a well established path. Above Camp Schurman, teams have found firm cramponing conditions and sections of the mountain to be icy. We anticipate conditions to change with warmer temperatures forecasted.
Baker and North Cascades
Komo Kulshan (Mt Baker) – Over the past week teams have been reaching the summit of Kulshan via the Easton Glacier and Coleman Deming route. The mountain is in good climbing shape with ample snow coverage on the glaciers. On the approach up to Sandy Camp, teams are not ascending the summer trail route as seasonal snow below 5,000ft has been melting fast. The Schribers Meadow parking lot is still snow covered and we expect the parking lot to melt out quickly with the warmer weather.
Shuksan – Our team summited Mt Shuksan earlier this week and reported excellent climbing conditions to the summit. Steep firm neve snow climbing up the south face provided a highlight for all the climbers. The road accessing the trailhead is still blocked and climbers should be prepared for an additional short walk to access the summer trail.