Craig Van Hoy

    Craig Van Hoy

    Senior Guide: International, Washington, Alaska

    Craig currently has over 400 summits of Mount Rainier by 19 different routes and still holds several records and first ascents. As a teenager Craig made his first trip to the Himalayas and has climbed all Seven Summits including Mount Everest. In 1989 Craig summited the world’s third highest mountain, Kangchenjunga (28,169 ft.) as part of the first successful American expedition, without using supplemental oxygen. He is fluent in Spanish and proficient in Nepali. In Latin America he has guided many expeditions in Bolivia, Ecuador, Argentina and Mexico. In 2013 Craig completed his 20th successful summit of Aconcagua and 53rd summit of Pico de Orizaba (more than any other American guide). As a year round guide in the summer months he enjoys guiding in the Pacific Northwest including his favorite mountain, Mount Shuksan, in the North Cascades and spending time with his two active teenagers.


    Take 5 with the Guide

    Guilty Pleasure
    Huckleberry Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream

    What was your first mountain? When did you climb it? Who were you with?
    Mount St. Helens, 1975 with my Dad & my Brother Jeff

    What’s always in your snack bag?
    A Big bag of Cascade potato Chips or Pringles

    In another life I’d…
    I’d still be doing what I’m doing & retiring in a Spanish Hacienda

    When you’re not guiding?
    Dreaming of swimming or surfing in the warm ocean

    Guide For:


    Significant Ascents

    473 summits of Rainier by 19 routes (4th most on record)
    Record Speed climb of Rainier in 1981 and 1983 (5 hours, 20 minutes)
    First One Day Ascent of Mount Baker & Mount Shuksan in the same day. (Sept. 1982)
    3 expeditions to Mt. Vinson
    33 expeditions to Aconcagua, Argentina (including 28 summits)
    8 expeditions to Bolivia
    4 expeditions to Ecuador
    3 expeditions to Mount Everest via The Great Couloir, North Ridge and summit via the South Col.
    1 expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1989 (summit with Ed Viesturs without supplemental oxygen)
    1 expedition to Xixipangma, 1993
    Over 60 expeditions to The Mexican Volcanoes including 63-summits of Pico de Orizaba
    18 summits of Kilimanjaro
    8 summits of Mount Elbrus, Russia
    Numerous climbs in The Cascades and Olympic Mountains since 1975.


    Wilderness First Responder/ CPR
    Leave No Trace Trainer
    AMGA Alpine Guide
    Avalanche Level II

    The expedition was well managed and guided. All 3 guides did an excellent job above all Lakpa who went out of his way to help us out with our miscellaneous issues.

    Aconcagua BLOG

    • 2022 Aconcagua Webinar

      If your 2022 winter plans include climbing the Stone Sentinel, check out the webinar we hosted on October 4th.  Lead Aconcagua Guide, Rachel Molstad, outlined both climbing routes and what to expect on the expedition.   Our Gear Manager, Ciara Sampaio, walked us through gear considerations along with helpful information on porters, money, and pre-trip logistics.  […]

    • Is My Training Working?

      Is my training working? Whether explicitly spoken or implied, this is the question many climbers ask of themselves, their friends, and perhaps their guides. At Alpine Ascents, we hear this question weekly. While the best answer to this question requires a comprehensive understanding of you and your objective, there are simpler ways to get a […]

    • Not on the Gear List, But in our Backpacks

      Off-List Must-Haves Gear lists are honed utilitarian tools for packing for a trip. Our gear lists represent years of carefully considering only and exactly what is needed for a given climb. You might wonder: are there things worth bringing into the mountains, not on our gear lists? Absolutely! Loaded Smartphone (the Electronic Multi-Tool) A smartphone […]

    Partners & Accreditations

    Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park.
    © Copyright 2023 All Rights Reserved. Alpine Ascents International