Craig Van Hoy

    Craig Van Hoy

    Guide: International, Washington, Alaska

    Craig currently has over 400 summits of Mount Rainier by 19 different routes and still holds several records and first ascents. As a teenager Craig made his first trip to the Himalayas and has climbed all Seven Summits including Mount Everest. In 1989 Craig summited the world’s third highest mountain, Kangchenjunga (28,169 ft.) as part of the first successful American expedition, without using supplemental oxygen. He is fluent in Spanish and proficient in Nepali. In Latin America he has guided many expeditions in Bolivia, Ecuador, Argentina and Mexico. In 2013 Craig completed his 20th successful summit of Aconcagua and 53rd summit of Pico de Orizaba (more than any other American guide). As a year round guide in the summer months he enjoys guiding in the Pacific Northwest including his favorite mountain, Mount Shuksan, in the North Cascades and spending time with his two active teenagers.

    10-year

    Take 5 with the Guide

    Guilty Pleasure
    Huckleberry Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream

    What was your first mountain? When did you climb it? Who were you with?
    Mount St. Helens, 1975 with my Dad & my Brother Jeff

    What’s always in your snack bag?
    A Big bag of Cascade potato Chips or Pringles

    In another life I’d…
    I’d still be doing what I’m doing & retiring in a Spanish Hacienda

    When you’re not guiding?
    Dreaming of swimming or surfing in the warm ocean

    Guide For:

    Aconcagua

    Significant Ascents

    473 summits of Rainier by 19 routes (4th most on record)
    Record Speed climb of Rainier in 1981 and 1983 (5 hours, 20 minutes)
    First One Day Ascent of Mount Baker & Mount Shuksan in the same day. (Sept. 1982)
    3 expeditions to Mt. Vinson
    33 expeditions to Aconcagua, Argentina (including 28 summits)
    8 expeditions to Bolivia
    4 expeditions to Ecuador
    3 expeditions to Mount Everest via The Great Couloir, North Ridge and summit via the South Col.
    1 expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1989 (summit with Ed Viesturs without supplemental oxygen)
    1 expedition to Xixipangma, 1993
    Over 60 expeditions to The Mexican Volcanoes including 63-summits of Pico de Orizaba
    18 summits of Kilimanjaro
    8 summits of Mount Elbrus, Russia
    Numerous climbs in The Cascades and Olympic Mountains since 1975.

    Certifications

    Wilderness First Responder/ CPR
    Leave No Trace Trainer
    AMGA Alpine Guide
    Avalanche Level II

    Our guides were terrific. Both have vast experience and took the time to explain their experiences and learned skills to all of us. They made sure everyone was well-versed on what to expect each day, along with required gear. They emphasized many of the basic skills required to summit a mountain like Aconcagua. They were […]

    Aconcagua BLOG

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