Craig Van Hoy
Craig currently has over 400 summits of Mount Rainier by 19 different routes and still holds several records and first ascents. As a teenager Craig made his first trip to the Himalayas and has climbed all Seven Summits including Mount Everest. In 1989 Craig summited the world’s third highest mountain, Kangchenjunga (28,169 ft.) as part of the first successful American expedition, without using supplemental oxygen. He is fluent in Spanish and proficient in Nepali. In Latin America he has guided many expeditions in Bolivia, Ecuador, Argentina and Mexico. In 2013 Craig completed his 20th successful summit of Aconcagua and 53rd summit of Pico de Orizaba (more than any other American guide). As a year round guide in the summer months he enjoys guiding in the Pacific Northwest including his favorite mountain, Mount Shuksan, in the North Cascades and spending time with his two active teenagers.
Take 5 with the Guide
Huckleberry Pie with Vanilla Ice Cream
What was your first mountain? When did you climb it? Who were you with?
Mount St. Helens, 1975 with my Dad & my Brother Jeff
What’s always in your snack bag?
A Big bag of Cascade potato Chips or Pringles
In another life I’d…
I’d still be doing what I’m doing & retiring in a Spanish Hacienda
When you’re not guiding?
Dreaming of swimming or surfing in the warm ocean
473 summits of Rainier by 19 routes (4th most on record)
Record Speed climb of Rainier in 1981 and 1983 (5 hours, 20 minutes)
First One Day Ascent of Mount Baker & Mount Shuksan in the same day. (Sept. 1982)
3 expeditions to Mt. Vinson
33 expeditions to Aconcagua, Argentina (including 28 summits)
8 expeditions to Bolivia
4 expeditions to Ecuador
3 expeditions to Mount Everest via The Great Couloir, North Ridge and summit via the South Col.
1 expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1989 (summit with Ed Viesturs without supplemental oxygen)
1 expedition to Xixipangma, 1993
Over 60 expeditions to The Mexican Volcanoes including 63-summits of Pico de Orizaba
18 summits of Kilimanjaro
8 summits of Mount Elbrus, Russia
Numerous climbs in The Cascades and Olympic Mountains since 1975.
Wilderness First Responder/ CPR
Leave No Trace Trainer
AMGA Alpine Guide
Avalanche Level II
I was in need of a vacation in a big way, and really enjoyed myself. I also learned a few new tricks from the guides. On this trip the guides were very forthcoming with information. I like to “hear” the thought process that goes into decision making. Thanks.