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Craig Van Hoy

Craig Van Hoy

Guide: International, Washington, Alaska

Craig currently has over 400 summits of Mount Rainier by 19 different routes and still holds several records and first ascents. As a teenager Craig made his first trip to the Himalayas and has climbed all Seven Summits including Mount Everest. In 1989 Craig summited the world’s third highest mountain, Kangchenjunga (28,169 ft.) as part of the first successful American expedition, without using supplemental oxygen. He is fluent in Spanish and proficient in Nepali. In Latin America he has guided many expeditions in Bolivia, Ecuador, Argentina and Mexico. In 2013 Craig completed his 20th successful summit of Aconcagua and 53rd summit of Pico de Orizaba (more than any other American guide). As a year round guide in the summer months he enjoys guiding in the Pacific Northwest including his favorite mountain, Mount Shuksan, in the North Cascades and spending time with his two active teenagers.

10-year

Guide For:

Aconcagua

Significant Ascents

432 summits of Rainier by 19 routes (4th most on record)
Record Speed climb of Rainier in 1981 and 1983 (5 hours, 20 minutes)
First One Day Ascent of Mount Baker & Mount Shuksan in the same day. (Sept. 1982)
3 expeditions to Mt. Vinson
26 expeditions to Aconcagua, Argentina (including 20 summits)
8 expeditions to Bolivia
4 expeditions to Ecuador
3 expeditions to Mount Everest via The Great Couloir, North Ridge and summit via the South Col.
1 expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1989 (summit with Ed Viesturs without supplemental oxygen)
1 expedition to Xixipangma, 1993
Over 50 expeditions to The Mexican Volcanoes including 60-summits of Pico de Orizaba
12 summits of Kilimanjaro
5 summits of Mount Elbrus, Russia
Numerous climbs in The Cascades and Olympic Mountains since 1975.

Certifications

Wilderness First Responder/ CPR
Leave No Trace Trainer
AMGA Alpine Guide
Avalanche Level II

Biggest strength was the flexibility/extra time built into the schedule.

ALPINE ASCENTS BLOG

  • Staying Hydrated in the Backcountry

    Sometimes the harsh environment encountered in mountaineering can make even the simplest tasks difficult. Staying hydrated is a perfect example – something that is among the most banal of tasks in the lowcountry can become exceedingly complicated in a cold, snowy environment. When all available water is locked up in solid form as snow or […]

  • webbing, anchor, water knot

    KNOTS AND HITCHES: THE WATER KNOT

    The following is the fifth in a series of “how-to” videos on the major knots and hitches used in the mountains. Stay tuned for more videos on knots like the bowline and ring bend, and hitches like the Klemheist and Prusik! The water knot is a simple knot used to tie two ends of webbing […]

  • Knots and Hitches: The Figure 8 Follow Through

    The following is the fifth in a series of “how-to” videos on the major knots and hitches we use in the mountains. Stay tuned for more videos on knots like the bowline, ring bend- and hitches like the Klemheist & Prusik! The Figure 8 follow through is a standard knot used for many different purposes […]

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Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park.
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