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Craig Van Hoy

Craig Van Hoy

Guide: International, Washington, Alaska

Craig currently has over 400 summits of Mount Rainier by 19 different routes and still holds several records and first ascents. As a teenager Craig made his first trip to the Himalayas and has climbed all Seven Summits including Mount Everest. In 1989 Craig summited the world’s third highest mountain, Kangchenjunga (28,169 ft.) as part of the first successful American expedition, without using supplemental oxygen. He is fluent in Spanish and proficient in Nepali. In Latin America he has guided many expeditions in Bolivia, Ecuador, Argentina and Mexico. In 2013 Craig completed his 20th successful summit of Aconcagua and 53rd summit of Pico de Orizaba (more than any other American guide). As a year round guide in the summer months he enjoys guiding in the Pacific Northwest including his favorite mountain, Mount Shuksan, in the North Cascades and spending time with his two active teenagers.

5-year

Guide For:

Aconcagua

Significant Ascents

432 summits of Rainier by 19 routes (4th most on record)
Record Speed climb of Rainier in 1981 and 1983 (5 hours, 20 minutes)
First One Day Ascent of Mount Baker & Mount Shuksan in the same day. (Sept. 1982)
3 expeditions to Mt. Vinson
26 expeditions to Aconcagua, Argentina (including 20 summits)
8 expeditions to Bolivia
4 expeditions to Ecuador
3 expeditions to Mount Everest via The Great Couloir, North Ridge and summit via the South Col.
1 expedition to Kangchenjunga in 1989 (summit with Ed Viesturs without supplemental oxygen)
1 expedition to Xixipangma, 1993
Over 50 expeditions to The Mexican Volcanoes including 60-summits of Pico de Orizaba
12 summits of Kilimanjaro
5 summits of Mount Elbrus, Russia
Numerous climbs in The Cascades and Olympic Mountains since 1975.

Certifications

Wilderness First Responder/ CPR
Leave No Trace Trainer
AMGA Alpine Guide
Avalanche Level II

The strengths were clearly the experience and knowledge brought by the guides, the thorough planning which provided us with excellent food considering the conditions, and most of all the sensible approach to planning the climb which gave everyone a good chance of summiting and acclimatizing properly when other groups were clearly rushing too quickly and failing.

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