While the calendar technically says June, the Cascades have recently been reminding climbers that winter is not quite ready to let go. Over the past week, Mount Rainier received nearly two inches of precipitation at Paradise in 36hrs! Much of that precipitation falls as as snow at the higher elevations. Alpine Ascents guides reported significant new snowfall on Mount Rainier as well as throughout the North Cascades, creating fresh winter conditions on many alpine routes. Temperatures remained unusually cold for this time of year, with climbers encountering snow, wind, and below-average temperatures across much of the range. Looking ahead, weather appears to be improving. Forecasts call for warming temperatures and a return to sunny skies heading into the weekend. While the recent snowfall has refreshed coverage on many glaciers and alpine routes, climbers should anticipate changing snow conditions as the new snow settles and warmer temperatures begin to affect the mountain snowpack.
Mount Rainier (Tahoma)
Over the past week, Mount Rainier received significant new snowfall on the upper mountain, accompanied by cold temperatures, wind, and challenging climbing conditions. In anticipation of the storm cycle, our guide teams proactively took down and cached high camp earlier this week, operating for two nights directly out of Camp Muir while the weather moved through. Despite the challenging conditions, our most recent team successfully reached the summit on Tuesday, climbing from Camp Muir and taking advantage of a favorable weather window. With improving weather and warmer temperatures in the forecast, we are planning to reestablish high camp later this week as operations return to a more typical early-season pattern.
On the Emmons Route, our current team is making its way to Camp Schurman today and is aiming for a summit attempt tomorrow. We look forward to hearing their field observations and receiving an updated conditions report from the east side of the mountain. Our next Kautz climb is launching shortly and should provide valuable information on conditions in the coming week.
Route conditions continue to evolve. The Ingraham Direct remains the primary route being used, although guides are monitoring conditions closely as warming temperatures and glacier movement continue to reshape the route. Climbers should expect changing conditions and be prepared for everything from fresh snow to firm alpine ice depending on elevation, aspect, and time of day.
Mount Baker (Koma Kulshan)
Mount Baker climbing conditions remain favorable for early June. Teams climbing both the Easton and Coleman-Deming routes have generally found good snow coverage and straightforward glacier travel for this time of year. Our Baker programs continue to operate from the south side due to the ongoing road washout affecting north side access. Climbers utilizing the north side should continue to expect a significant road walk.
The Mount Baker Highway is open to Heather Meadows, while the Artist Point Road remains snow covered and is expected to open later this month or in early July.
North Cascades
The North Cascades remain very much in a transitional spring-to-summer pattern. Significant snow still exists at higher elevations, and many alpine approaches continue to involve snow travel. Climbers heading into the North Cascades should plan for winter-like conditions on north-facing slopes and glacier routes. One notable update is that the North Cascades Highway (SR 20) remains closed due to winter storm damage and spring rockslides. WSDOT is currently targeting June 25 for a full reopening of the highway, which will significantly improve access to Washington Pass and many popular North Cascades objectives. Additionally, Cascade River Road remains closed at Eldorado, limiting vehicle access deeper into the national park. Parties heading toward Eldorado Peak, Boston Basin, and other classic objectives should verify current road conditions before departing.
