The Cascades climbing season continues to move forward, with teams enjoying generally favorable weather and good climbing conditions throughout much of the state. Guides are beginning to observe the seasonal changes that come with warmer temperatures and longer days. The current forecast suggests continued periods of stable weather intermixed with typical spring systems moving through the region. Climbers should continue to prepare for a wide range of mountain conditions and remember that route conditions are changing rapidly as we move deeper into June.
Mount Rainier (Tahoma)
Today, our team climbing the Muir route departed Ingraham Flats (high camp) and successfully reached the summit of Mount Rainier via the Ingraham Direct Route with 100% success! Guides reported good travel conditions overall and an enjoyable climb to the summit. Between high camp and 13,200ft there are currently 3 ladder crossings on the route. Based on current observations, we anticipate that our guide team will likely transition to the Disappointment Cleaver Route in the near future. Over on the Emmons route our team is reporting favorable climbing conditions and ample seasonal snow on the Interglacier and Emmons glacier. For both trips we using double boots at this time and still recommending starting from trailhead in boots.
Mount Baker (Komo Kulshan)
Mount Baker continues to provide excellent climbing and skiing conditions. Teams have been active on both the south and north sides of the mountain. On the south side, climbers and skiers are finding good snow coverage and straightforward access. Our seasonal Baker camp at 6,200ft is fully setup and climbers are enjoying the 2m Dome tent and the pre-setup camp. On the north side, teams continue to utilize the Coleman-Deming Route, though climbers should be prepared for the longer approach due to the road washout that remains in place below the trailhead. Despite the additional walking, guides report that climbing conditions on the upper mountain remain very good and summited via the North Ridge of Baker.
North Cascades
Teams are climbing across areas of the North Cascades National Park including ascents on Shuksan, Washington Pass, and various other peaks including Glacier Peak in the heart of the Cascades. As a reminder access to Washington Pass over highway 20 remains closed. Climbers heading to Washington Pass will need to access this area by driving to Mazama first until the highway is reopened.
Happy Climbing!
