Mongolia Day-to-Day Itinerary (Subject to change)
Day 1
Depart US for Mongolia. (Departure date depends on home country. Climbers need to arrive by Day 2.)
Day 2
Arrive in Ulaan Bataar.
Day 3
After we complete gear check, we will have a formal tour of the city and hope to include (as time permits) visits to the Choijin Lama temple, Winter Palace of Bogd Khan, and the National Museum of Mongolia.
Day 4
We’ll fly to Bayan-Ölgii (3 hours). After preparing our gear and discussing Leave No Trace practices, we’ll travel by jeep and head toward the Altai Tavan Bogd and Oigor gol valley. We’ll visit with nomads living in traditional “gers” (tents) and cross great alpine meadows filled with livestock of yak, sheep, horses, and camels. We’ll camp in the lower alpine meadows or travel directly to the park gate (a seven hour drive). The drive is on a dirt road in rough terrain.
Day 5
We’ll hike to the Potaniin glacier (6 hours) and establish our Base Camp for our climbs of Malchin and Khüiten. This approach is a magnificent hike over tundra terrain. Once we surmount the pass to the Tavang Bogd Glacier, all of the Mongolian Altai Mountains stand before us. Along with our two-person tents in Base Camp, a tent will be set up for cooking and dining.
Day 6
We attempt Malchin Peak as warm up for Khüiten. This climb begins from Base Camp and ascends a scree ridge for 2,000 feet, for a 3,500-foot total climb. The climb takes approximately 6-8 hours, and we’ll have great views of the Altai Mountains in all three countries; Mongolia, Kazakhstan and China.
Day 7
Active rest day, with skills review, training at Base Camp or on the glacier, and camping.
Day 8
We’ll move to High Camp on the glacier (7 hours).
Day 9
Ascent of Khüiten. The climb of Khüiten begins with a long traverse of the Potaniin Glacier, leading directly to the border of Russia. Just before reaching the border, we’ll establish High Camp on the glacier. From this Advanced Base Camp, we’ll turn left and surmount the North Ridge, a 3,000-foot moderate-to-steep snow ridge often broken with crevasses. The North Ridge takes us directly to the summit, where we’ll stand on the highest point in Mongolia, viewing all the peaks of the Altai. We’ll then return to camp.
Day 10
Upon completion of Khüiten, we may attempt the summit of nearby Nairamdal, or return to Base Camp.
Day 11
After completing our climbs, we will hike back to our camp in the Tsagaan Gol Valley and meet our drivers. This evening we will have the opportunity to visit Tuvan families and share their culture and lifestyle.
Day 12
We will drive towards Sagsai Town, enjoy the landscape and local culture.
Day 13
Drive back to Bayan Olgii (1.5 hours), leaving some time to shop. Flight to Ulaan Bataar.
Day 14
Free day in Ulaan Bataar for shopping/sightseeing.
Day 15
Depart for country of origin.
Day 16
Arrive in country of origin.
The trip was excellent! In addition to the excellent pre-trip communications from Alpine Ascents and the superb leadership of Brian Houle, the in-country logistical support and guides were terrific.
