Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys Climb Itinerary
Second expedition with AAI. As with the first, the Shuksan climb was phenomenal! Top quality company!
Day 1
We’ll meet at 6:30am at the Alpine Ascents Seattle office and start with a gear check. A thorough gear check ensures everyone is fully equipped and prepared for the course. Rental gear is fitted and packed at this time.
From the office, we will drive to Mt. Erie to learn the basics of rock climbing in a spectacular setting. The climbing areas on Mt. Erie overlook the Puget Sound, with panoramic views of the San Juan Islands, the Olympics, and several of the Cascade volcanoes. Students will learn belaying, rappelling, lowering, descending, rope management and climbing techniques. Plan to spend several hours practicing movement skills and working on technical skills that will be used on the summit pyramid of Mount Shuksan. In the evening we will set up camp at a campground near our approach trailhead.
Day 2
The group will pack up and ready themselves for the approach on the mountain. This hike is one of the most scenic in the Pacific Northwest with old growth forests, alpine meadows, and stunning views of Mount Baker. The trail terminates near Lake Ann, a popular destination, with majestic views of the calving Curtis Glacier. From the lake we start the climb up the Chimneys. This is 800 vertical feet of 3rd and 4th class scrambling and provides an unsuspecting passage to the upper mountain. In the evening, the group prepares for the summit bid.
Day 3
Depending on conditions, the team departs camp between 5:00 and 8:00 a.m. for the summit push. Technical climbing begins immediately above camp on the moderate—but often icy—slopes of the Upper Curtis Glacier. From there, the route weaves through massive crevasses toward a passage leading up to the Sulphide Glacier. This steep slope, known as Hell’s Highway, presents another challenging pitch of steep snow or ice, depending on conditions. Above Hell’s Highway, the terrain mellows for roughly 1,000 feet before reaching the iconic Summit Pyramid. From here, there are two options to reach the summit. When conditions allow, we aim to climb the Southeast Ridge—a fun and exposed route featuring 8–10 short alpine rock pitches. The Central Gully is a strong alternative in poor weather or if the team is running behind schedule and also serves as the rappel descent route. This is a full-value alpine day involving a wide range of techniques, from rock climbing to steep snow and ice travel. A typical round-trip summit push takes 8–10 hours from camp.
Day 4
We pack up camp and descend the steep sections of the White Salmon Glacier and the Fisher Chimneys. Often guides lower climbers down the steeper sections but much of the terrain requires careful yet efficient down climbing. Once at the base of the Chimneys, the technical challenges are over and it is a pleasant hike back to the trailhead.
Itinerary subject to change due to conditions.
Mount Shuksan was a blast! My guide’s decision making, safety systems, and experience were at the highest level. The experience was challenging, rewarding, and purely just a lot of fun.
