Logistics

4:00 P.M. Gear Check Day Before Course Begins

Meet at the Alpine Ascents Office at 3:45 p.m. for a mandatory gear check beginning at 4:00 p.m. the day before your climb is scheduled to begin. This gear check will last about 2 hours. You are required to attend this meeting. Please review the Gear Check information and come prepared.  You are responsible for driving to and from the course location.  Please note transportation is not provided on this course.

A valid Northwest Forest Pass is required to park at the trailhead. Annual Passes are available from a variety of local and online vendors, or you can purchase a Day e-Pass online for each day of your trip and print them at home.

Getting to Seattle

If you are flying into Seattle, SeaTac is the closest airport to our office.  You are responsible for transportation between the airport and your hotel.

Getting from the Airport to the Office and Vicinity

Our office is 30-50 minutes from the airport (depending on traffic). Most climbers coming from out of town rent a car at the airport.

Other options are taking Shuttle Express or the Light Rail (public transit) from the airport station to Westlake Station, followed by a Lyft/Uber/taxi the last 1.8 miles to the office. The Light Rail is $3 for this one-way trip.

7:30 a.m. Glacier, WA Meeting on Day 1 of Course

Meet in Glacier, WA at 7:30 a.m. During the Gear Check the day before, your guide will provide an exact meetup location and time. You will need a Northwest Forest Pass to park.  You can either purchase an annual pass for $30.00 or three $5.00 day passes. Please be on time and be aware that there is not cell phone coverage at the trailhead.

Please note: Uber/Lyft and other rideshare apps or taxis are not viable options for your transport from Seattle to the mountain.

Rental Gear Return Day 3 of Course

The team will de-issue rental items at the trailhead at the conclusion of the course.  Climbers will not return to the Alpine Ascents office after the course.

Air travelers are strongly advised against booking flights out until the day after your course concludes. Trip schedules will not be adjusted to accommodate return flights booked on the same day your course concludes.

In Bellingham

We recommend booking a room for the night before your course and for the night your course concludes. We will return to our vehicles in the evening on Day 3 of the course, between 6 p.m. and 8 p.m. We strongly advise against flying out until the day after your course concludes. Trip schedules will not be adjusted to accommodate return flights booked on the same day your course concludes.

The closest town to the starting point of our 3-Day Alpine Ice Climbing Course is Glacier, Washington (~ 9 miles).  It’s a very small town without traditional hotels, but there are excellent and affordable rentals on AirBNB. Bellingham, Washington is farther away (~60 miles) but is a larger town and has more lodging options and restaurants. We recommend finding a hotel on your preferred travel booking site at a price point that works for you.

 

 

4:00 p.m. Gear Check (Day Before Course Begins)

Meet at the Alpine Ascents Office at 3:45 p.m. for a mandatory gear check beginning at 4:00 p.m. This takes place the day before your climb is scheduled to begin. This meeting will last approximately 3 hours.

You are required to attend this meeting, so we can distribute and fit rental gear, do a thorough check of your gear, provide packing instruction, check personal menu items, review the route and trip itinerary, and answer any questions you may have.

You may attend the gear check in your normal street clothes.

What to Bring: Please bring all of your gear to gear check. Note that you do not need to pack carefully, as we look at every item together. Rental gear will be picked up at the gear check. You are responsible to bring all gear on the gear list (including food) except what you rent from Alpine Ascents.

Gear Check Video

For reference, check out this video that talks through the 3 Day Rainier gear list. The gear list for your course is similar, though not identical. The video should give you a basic understanding of the gear you will need for your Mount Baker course, but please refer to the link above when packing and preparing for your 3 Day Alpine Ice Climbing Course.

Gear List

Link back to your 3 Day Alpine Ice Climbing Course gear list:

Due to the heavily glaciated temperate mountains in the Washington Cascades you may be subject to highly variable weather conditions. With this in mind, we developed our gear list for the comfort and well being of our climbers. There may be occasions when required items are not used because of current weather conditions. You are welcome to call the office before your trip to check on conditions, but please note the gear list prepares you for poor weather conditions.

You are required to bring every item on this list as described so be as precise as possible when packing. Alpine Ascents rents quality equipment at reasonable rates. Gear is also available for purchase at the Alpine Ascents Equipment Store where climbers on an Alpine Ascents expedition will receive a discount.

Packing Suggestions

• Pack everything in two layers of sturdy plastic. (Trash compactor bags work best and are equivalent to two layers of plastic)
• Bring one large trash bag to completely and easily cover the inside of your pack.
• You will help carry some of the group equipment, so make sure there is some additional room in and on your pack.

About Food in the Mountains

Food Shopping

For this course, you will be responsible for bringing and cooking your own food, including lunches. Please purchase your foods before we meet. There are several large supermarkets near our office including Trader Joe’s, Safeway, and Metropolitan Market. If you plan to incorporate freeze-dried meals, purchase these ahead of time.

A comprehensive menu planning guide can be found on the next tab on this page under “Menu Plan.”

Overview

Food is one of the basic pleasures of wilderness travel. There are countless options for putting together healthy and delicious meals for long wilderness trips, depending on how much time, effort, and money you have to spend on preparation before the trip. Thorough meal planning and preparation is a must!

While our summit climbs and expeditions include meals, our mountaineering courses aim to teach sustainability and self-sufficiency in the mountains. Guides will review all food items at the gear check, but you will be responsible for cooking your own meals.

For the 3-day Alpine Ice Climbing Course you will need:
2 Breakfasts
3 Lunches
2 Dinners

Basic Principles

Nourishment and mountaineering are inseparable. Climbing requires higher daily energy expenditure than many other strenuous activities. Eating well (and frequently!) sustains energy levels, keeps us happy, and helps us to combat the cold conditions and inclement weather we will likely encounter in the mountains of Washington. One of the most challenging parts of a mountain guide’s job is advising climbers on the types and quantities of food to bring on a mountaineering expedition. Unlike items such a sleeping bag where you have it packed or not, food is subjective.

Some climbers eat large quantities of food, some eat less. Some love dehydrated meals, while others do not as a result of digestion issues. As guides, we can’t tell you what you are going to like or how much you are going to eat. There is no way to tell you if you’re going to want 2,500 or 3,500 calories per day.

With that in mind, here are some general thoughts on food planning:

Too little food is terrible, but too much food is not the answer
Going hungry and/or having to live off the extra food of other climbers and guides is not fun. On the other hand, you don’t want to haul around food that will go uneaten. Consider the weight and volume of what foods you are bringing.

All food selection is a compromise between taste, weight, space
A block of cheese is easier to pack than a similar amount weight of shredded cheese because it is denser. Dehydrated meals are the lightest meals to pack and easiest to prepare, but if you don’t like them it doesn’t matter how light and easy they are.

Bring food that you like
3 days is a long time to be unhappy with your food choices. If you don’t like a particular food in your home, it is unlikely you are going to start enjoying it in the mountains.

It’s your responsibility to check food preferences and amounts prior to your trip
Is 1 cup dry cereal with 3 tablespoons of powdered milk enough for one breakfast, or will you be happier with 1.5 cups? How much pasta should you bring for one dinner – 1 packet or 2? Trying out a few mountain meals at home will give you a much better sense of what to bring. Test out snack/lunch options before your course, too.

Condiments
Salt, pepper, mustard, hot sauce, sugar, etc. are all great additions to any meal plan, especially if you are not using dehydrated meals (as they are already high in sodium). The lightest option is to pick up individual serving packets from the deli section at the grocery and store them in a Ziploc bag. Also, very, very small (1 oz.) plastic storage containers with screw-on caps can be purchased at most outdoor stores for condiment storage.

Hot Drinks
An essential part of breakfast and dinner for both hydration and well being. Coffee drinkers take heart – there can be decent coffee in the mountains! Starbucks VIA’s have become standard on mountaineering expeditions. A small portion of powdered milk and sugar can be added. Black tea, yerba mate, herbal teas, hot chocolate, and powdered chai are other options. Plan on bringing enough for 2 to 5 hot drinks per day!

Food Storage
Meats and cheeses are great foods for this course as they will not spoil – nature’s freezer (snow!) will be close to hand. Reduce excess packaging. Get rid of boxes, extra wrapping, etc. Ziplocks are great for repackaging food. A few medium-sized stuff sacks are great for organizing food while in camp.

Drinking Water
Consider bringing Nuun hydration tablets or other cold drink mixes to add to drinking water for electrolyte replacement during your course. *Please note the emphasis on hot drinks and other liquids in the menu. Staying hydrated while climbing is very important, and this issue is addressed in-depth while on the course.

Training

For this course, we will be hiking from mile 3.8 of FS Road 39 to our camp on the Lower Coleman Glacier.  The ascent is over 3,500 feet elevation gain in approximately 7.0 miles.  You will carry a pack of 50+ pounds during this ascent.  Proper strength training and sport specific endurance work carrying a weighted pack will pay off here.

If you are are doing this course as preparation for a summit climb, we recommend following the appropriate training program for your objective.

If this kind of training is new for you, we strongly recommend working with a trainer/coach that has a background in mountaineering. Steve House and staff at Uphill Athlete are experienced industry professionals we highly recommend.

Knots to Know

We recommend learning the following knots and hitches before your course. Knowing these knots beforehand will help you focus more of your course time on learning their applications.

Figure 8 Follow Through
Clove Hitch
Double Fishermans
Alpine Butterfly

Reading List

This is a highly recommended shortlist and we would be happy to pass on a longer reading list for those interested. These links will bounce to online vendors with reviews.

Glacier Climbing & Crevasse Rescue
Ian Nicholson, Mountaineers Books
Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills
Don Graydon (Ed.), Kurt Hanson (Ed.), Mountaineers Society, Mountaineers Books

LNT

Alpine Ascents International practices Leave No Trace principles on all expeditions. We believe that given the proper information most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment. Please Visit:

7 Principles of Leave No Trace

As guides, we spend time teaching the environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principals and practices. There is nothing more beautiful than working hard to get high into the mountains, come upon a pristine campsite, witness incredible views and have the feeling that no one has been there before.

Conversely, there is nothing more disheartening than working hard to climb a mountain, reaching a site and encountering trash, food waste and toilet paper. Please read the seven LNT principles, and call the office if you have any questions about what you can do to plan ahead.

Tipping

Guides are permitted to accept and greatly appreciate tips. An average tip for the guide team is $100-150.

Please be aware that we are unable to process tips by card. You are welcome to tip your guides with cash or via mobile payment such as Venmo or PayPal.

Absolutely an incredible trip (and not just because we had perfect weather). All the details were dialed in, our guide was exceptional, and the itinerary was spot on in getting us where we needed to be mentally and physically for Mont Blanc itself.

3 Day Alpine Ice Climbing Course BLOG

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