Knots & Hitches: The Alpine Butterfly

Butterfly Image

The following is the first in a series of “how-to” videos on the major knots and hitches we use in the mountains. Stay tuned for more videos on knots like the figure-8, double-fisherman, ring bend- and hitches like the muenter & prussik!

Most often used when clipping into the middle of a section of rope, the alpine butterfly is a simple and effective knot. It easily handles loading from either direction. In this video, we show you how to quickly tie a butterfly and then clip into a rope for glacier travel. This is the method we most commonly use when clipping into the rope for glacier travel.

ALPINE ASCENTS BLOG

  • Guide Trip Report: Denali Traverse

    by Sam Hennessey Climbing in the Alaska Range in late spring sometimes feels like stepping into another world. The endless daylight, and the sheer contrast of Denali towering over the rest of the state gives it an atmosphere like no other. For the last decade, Michael Gardner and I have stared down from the upper […]

  • Epic Climbs That Might Not Be on Your Radar

    ‘Twas the night before Rainier dates were released, when all through the land Many a climber was stirring, contemplating high altitude plans so grand Their crampons were placed in the gear bin with care In hopes to use them on Rainier in weather so fair My timer was set for the exact release time To […]

  • Dear Alpine Ascents: Backcountry Quilts

    Hey Alpine, I’m headed out to Washington in mid-September for a 6-day course (stoked) and I’ve been hearing a lot of great things about backcountry quilts.  Apparently all the cool-kid alpinists are using them.  Can I bring one on my course? Sincerely, Steve House in Training  Hi Steve House in Training, Thanks for reaching out […]

Partners & Accreditations

Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park.
© Copyright 2021 All Rights Reserved. Alpine Ascents International