Itinerary

6 Day Denali Prep/Winter Mountaineering Course Itinerary

The quality of the course was amazing. Great instruction and structure, and really enjoyed the morning movement and hikes out from camp. I’ve previously done Baker and Rainier, with also having done intermediate and advanced ice climbing courses, and this was by far the best instruction. Definitely feel prepared for Denali.

Our 6-day Denali Preparation program is an arduous training program designed to provide the final preparation for climbers before going to Alaska and attempting Denali. Mount Rainier has intense weather in the winter and spring and this provides the ideal training ground, one that emulates Denali itself. We spend 6 full days in the mountains to provide as much time in the field as possible. The itinerary will be flexible to accommodate winter conditions.

Day Before The Course

Gear Check. We meet at the Alpine Ascents Seattle Office at 2:00PM the day before the trip begins.   This essential 3-hour meeting includes a course overview, a detailed gear check led by our guides (ensuring your gear is in proper condition for Mount Rainier), a review of trip food and menu planning, instruction on Leave No Trace practices, and a discussion of the National Park Mission Statement and wilderness ethics.  After the orientation, you’ll have time to purchase additional groceries and gear if needed.  You will stay overnight at the hotel of your choice in Seattle

Day 1

We’ll meet at our Seattle office at 7:00 AM and depart for Paradise, WA on Mt. Rainier. At the trailhead, we’ll discuss the route, weather, and potential campsites. Sleds, commonly used on glaciated expeditions, will help us carry extra food and fuel. While pulling a sled can be challenging, we’ll ensure you master the packing and rigging skills. We’ll set up camp just below the tree line, where the move, though minimal in vertical gain, can be tough due to heavy loads and deep snow.

Skills Covered:

• Packing and rigging sleds
• Building wind walls for camp fortification 
• Traveling on snow and ice (walking techniques, ice axe use)
• Self-arrest practice 

Day 2

We start the day with whiteout navigation and continue refining our overall navigation skills using a map, compass, GPS, and terrain evaluation. Mt. Rainier’s winter and spring conditions offer the ideal setting for real-world whiteout practice.

Next, guides demonstrate various snow and ice anchors for belaying, protection, and rescue. Students then build and test different anchor types to ensure they are effective and properly constructed.

In the afternoon, we practice rope team travel on glaciated terrain, applying skills learned previously. We finish with a glacier tour on the Nisqually Glacier, focusing on rope intervals, communication, route finding, and hazard assessment while navigating through crevasses.

Skills Covered:

• Map, compass, GPS, and terrain evaluation
• Whiteout navigation 
• Snow anchor construction for belaying, protection, and rescue 
• Rope team travel, communication, rope interval management
• Hazard assessment 

Day 3

We’ll begin the day by reviewing key skills from the previous lesson, as each session builds on the last. We’ll practice building snow anchors and integrating them into various technical systems used in mountaineering. Guides will cover belaying and rappelling techniques relevant to both mountaineering and vertical climbing. In the afternoon, we’ll focus on ascending and descending fixed lines with an ascender—an essential skill for a successful summit day on Denali.

Skills Covered:

• Snow anchor integration into technical systems
• Belaying and rappelling
• Ascender use for climbing fixed lines

Day 4

We’ll begin the day by moving our camp, refining our camp craft as we ascend Mt. Rainier. Once camp is set up, we’ll build on previous lessons—knots, prussiks, rope handling, anchor construction, belaying, and mechanical advantage systems. By this point, students should be comfortable with the skills needed for crevasse rescue, which we’ll focus on for the day.

Crevasse rescue is a critical skill, and we’ll spend significant time practicing it. We start with a “dry” run on the surface, then each student will demonstrate proficiency in performing a real rescue after a fall into a crevasse. We primarily teach a 3:1 Z-Pulley rescue system on a 3-person rope team, but we also demonstrate the 2:1 Drop-C system for a 2-person team.

Students will also practice ascending out of a crevasse on their own using prussiks, gaining a realistic feel for self-rescue. Crevasses are hazardous, so guides will emphasize safety and climber well-being throughout. Despite the challenges, this is a memorable and rewarding day.

Skills Covered:

• Crevasse rescue techniques (Z-Pulley and 2:1 Drop C)
• Self-rescue ascension using prussiks

Day 5

Today, the group will break camp and ascend several thousand feet up the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir at 10,100 feet. Along the way, guides will focus on technical skills during the ascent. We’ll return to our camp in the evening.

Day 6

We’ll pack up and hike out from camp, relying on our whiteout navigation skills to find our way back to the parking lot.

Throughout the course, we emphasize maintaining self-awareness and well-being, along with keeping camp clean and secure. One of the most valuable lessons is learning to live in a cold, often uncomfortable environment for six days.

Due to the unpredictable nature of mountain weather, guides may adjust the itinerary to align with the group’s skills, interests, and the conditions on the mountain. We will drive back to Seattle in the evening and de-issue our equipment back at our office.