BOOK YOUR NEXT TRIP | 206.378.1927

Cybercasts

Elbrus Team (The Glissladers) Summits!

Friends, Family & Loved Ones,

Just returned safely to the huts after 100% summit success! Strong team, fabulous weather, everyone on top!

Carole & Vern Tejas

Elbrus Team (The Glissladers) goes for it!

Friends, Family & Loved Ones,

Boy were we glad that we waited a day (lots of wind and some snow overnight)– and hopefully our patience will pay off. Our plan is to start our summit push Monday morning (Russia time) at 3:30 am. So today, Sunday, we spent some time talking about strategy for the summit push and packing our packs.

Mostly whiteout conditions today around the hut (– although very warm) meant that we stayed close to the Huts and worked on our anchor and pulley system skills.

Also got some extra rest for our big push to the summit. The whole Team is feeling really good and excited for our climb to the top of Europe.

Check in tomorrow to see how it all went!

Carole & Vern Tejas

Glissaders Practice their Skillsl

Friends, Family & Loved Ones,

What a difference a day makes! The blue sky! The panoramic views! No wind! Couldn’t be better.

We spent this morning practicing our self arrest skills– basically hurling ourselves down a steep snow slope and then using good technique to stop our fall. Fun, but wet. Most importantly, we now feel confident in our skills.

In the afternoon, we practiced clipping in and out of a fixed line to prepare for the upper mountain.

For extra credit, and in building clouds, we had an afternoon seminar on pulley systems for crevasse rescue.

The important news: as nice as the weather was for most of today, we got a not so great weather forecast for early morning, so we have decided to use our spare weather day and start our summit attempt on the wee hours of Monday morning.

Check back with us tomorrow for a rundown of our further adventures,

Carole & Vern Tejas

Elbrus Team (The Glissaders) get high!

Friends, Family & Loved Ones,

Greetings from 12,800 feet on the flanks of Mount Elbrus. This morning, wearing our crampons we hiked up to the bottom of Pashtakov Rocks – just under 15,000 feet. We had weather! A wee bit of sun, but mostly whiteout and, as we got higher, blustery winds. For three maybe four minutes at one point, the winds succeeded in blowing away most of the clouds, so if we were paying close attention, we could see the Eastern summit of the mountain and a cool panorama of the jagged Caucasus Range behind us. But it was a mostly whiteout day. Weather notwithstanding, we had a great hike up to the rocks. Some steeper “off-road” sections were exciting and the steep angle of the trail itself allowed us to practice our cramponing skills. The Team was super strong and everyone did great.

Along the way, we were adopted by a small black dog hanging out just below Pastakov Rocks, who must have known that we would give him food scraps upon our return to the hut. For now, the Team is calling him “Toto”.

This afternoon, we tied knots and rigged a “cow tail” safety cord for the summit fix line.

All my best,
Carole and Vern Tejas

Elbrus Team (The Glissaders) Glacier Photos

All my best,
Vern Tejas

As I have mentioned, the biggest strength of the Alpine ascents programs are the skills, enthusiasm and dedication of the guides. Vern is an exceptional guide because he is interesting and interested, yet always commands respect with a wicked sense of humor and a laugh.

Mount Elbrus double-coned summit. Left summit is the highest at 18,510 feet
Russian Orthodox Cathedrals in the Kremlin, Moscow.
Cultural Museum on Red Square, Moscow.
Climbers on an acclimatization hike, with Elbrus in the background.
Looking outside out hotel window at the Caucasus Range. Lucky 7
View from the new Elbrus Huts.
Relaxing at the top of an acclimatization hike, Elbrus in the background.
Snow Cat used to transport gear to our highest hut.
Sunrise on Elbrus summit day.
The last 400 feet to the summit.
High on summit day with the shadow of Elbrus under the full moon.
Ushba, one of the most famous mountains of the Caucasus.
Celebration party after summiting Elbrus.
Climbers high on summit day.
View of one of the new Elbrus Huts
View of one of the new Elbrus Huts
View of the new Elbrus Huts
Eugene and Nicolai, two of our Russian guides.
Sunflower fields outside Mineral Vody, southern Russia.
St. Isaacs Cathedral, St. Petersburg.
Peter and Pauls Fortress, St. Petersburg
The Hermitage in St. Petersburg, the greatest mueseum of Russia.
View of one of the new Elbrus Huts

ALPINE ASCENTS BLOG

  • Product Spotlight: MSR Access Tents

    We periodically like to spotlight a product we really, really like- in this case, the MSR Access series of tents, reviewed & vetted in the field by our staff. The Quick Review – MSR Access 3 Tent The good: extremely light (sub-4 lbs.), extremely packable (disappears into a pack like a single-wall tent), extremely livable […]

  • Knots & Hitches: The Alpine Butterfly

    The following is the first in a series of “how-to” videos on the major knots and hitches we use in the mountains. Stay tuned for more videos on knots like the figure-8, double-fisherman, ring bend- and hitches like the muenter & prussik! Most often used when clipping into the middle of a section of rope, […]

  • Which kind of stove should I bring?

    When packing for a climbing trip or expedition, choosing a cooking system can be one of the most complicated aspects of planning. As we explored in Backcountry stoves 101, there are many options for kinds of stove to bring – but how do you decide which style is best for a given trip? Ultimately, the […]

Partners & Accreditations

Alpine Ascents International is an authorized mountain guide service of Denali National Park and Preserve and Mount Rainier National Park.
Copyright © 2017 Alpine Ascents International. All rights reserved.