Gear List

Waist Leash

To be used with your ice axe, a commercial waist leash is designed to keep your ice axe attached to you even in the event that you drop it while climbing or taking a break. Note that only waist leases will work- no wrist leashes!

Black Diamond Slinger Leash

Ice Axe

A general mountaineering ice axe. Size according to height; under 5'2'' use a 50 cm axe, 5'3'' to 5'5'' use a 55 cm axe, 5'6'' to 5'9'' use a 60 cm axe, 5'10'' to 6'0'' use a 65 cm axe, above 6'0'' use a 70 cm axe. If you already have and prefer to use a waist leash, you are welcome to bring it to your gear check.

Petzl Glacier Ice Axe

Accessory Cord or Pre-Cut Prussiks

40 feet of 6mm accessory cord to be used for prussiking and other climbing rigging. Bring pre-tied prussiks if you already have them, or bring one continuous length to be cut.

6mm Accessory Cord

Crampons

General mountaineering crampons. We recommend modern steel 12-point crampons with anti-balling plates. We do not recommend 10-point, aluminum, or single-piece rigid crampons. The traction offered by a 12-point crampon is superior to that of a 10-point; steel crampons stand up to the rigors of potential time spent walking on rock in crampons; one-piece crampons often break or do not fit modern boots well.

Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampon

Carabiners

Please bring (2) large auto-locking carabiners for use with your harness, and (6) non-locking carabiners (wiregate or standard are both OK).

Rocklock Twistlock Carabiner

Oz Carabiner

Alpine Climbing Harness

Your harness must fit over all of your clothing, feature gear loops, adjustable leg loops and waist belt, and must be able to fully separate at the legs and waist. We strongly recommend newer models with a belay loop and which do not require "doubling back" your waist belt- older models can be very cumbersome. Old Black Diamond Alpine Bod type harnesses are not recommended.

Black Diamond Couloir Harness

Trekking Poles

Collapsible skiing/trekking poles with snow baskets. Three-section varieties are preferred.

Black Diamond Trail Trekking Poles

Ascender

One right or left-handed ascender (pick your dominant hand to choose which style ascender). This item must be in good condition.

Petzl Ascension Ascender

Wool or Synthetic Socks

Three pairs of medium to heavy hiking socks. These must fit over your liner socks if you plan to wear liner socks.

Wool Socks

Gaiters

Full-sized waterproof gaiters that must fit snugly over your mountaineering boots. Short trekking gaiters do not offer sufficient protection.

Outdoor Research Crocodiles

High-Altitude Double Boot

A double boot with either a hard plastic or soft synthetic outer designed for use with a high-altitude liner. Not necessary if using a high-altitude all-in-one boot system.

La Sportiva G2 SM

La Sportiva Spantik

Insulated Overboots

Below the knee length neoprene overboot. Should fit tightly over your boots and work well with your crampons. Necessary when using a high-altitude double-boot system. Not necessary for use with a high-altitude all-in-one boot system.

Forty Below Purple Haze Overboots

High-Altitude All-in-One Boot

Used instead of the high-altitude double-boot, this all-in-one integrated boot system is warm enough for use without overboots, and eliminates the need for gaiters.

La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo

The North Face Verto S8K

Booties

Synthetic or down camp booties for comfortable wear around camp.

Exped Down Booty WB

Exped Synthetic Booty

Short Underwear

Two to three pairs. Synthetic or wool fabrics only; bring a comfortable athletic style for any top and bottom underwear.

Men's Arc'teryx Phase SL Boxers

Women's ExOfficio Give-N-Go Brief

Baselayer Bottom

Non-cotton baselayer bottoms that should fit snugly without constriction.

Rab Men's Merino+ 120 Pants

Rab Women's Merino+ 120 Pants

Heavy Baselayer Bottoms

Heavy, expedition-weight baselayer bottoms designed to be used while climbing in very cold conditions. Fabrics such as Polartec Power Stretch, Capilene 4, and Polartec Power Dry will work well.

Rab PS Pants, Men's

Rab PS Pants, Women's

Baselayer Top

One to two long-sleeved baselayer tops. Baselayers must be constructed of a non-cotton material such as merino wool or polyester. Note that light-colored, hooded baselayers are strongly recommended for sun protection, and are worn by most guides.

Arc'teryx Men's Phasic Sun Hoody

Arc'teryx Women's Phasic Sun Hoody

Midlayer Top

A midweight, form-fitting, lightweight fleece layer for use over baselayers. Hoods are optional but recommended.

North Face Men's Ventrix Hybrid Hoodie

North Face Women's Ventrix Hybrid Hoodie

Softshell Pants

Stretchy, comfortable, non-insulated softshell pants that should fit comfortably with or without your baselayer bottoms. Please note that "zip-off"-style trekking pants are too light to be considered softshell pants.

Men's Rab Vector Pants

Women's RAB Vector Pants

Softshell Jacket

This breathable but wind-and-weather resistant jacket is a key part of a mountaineering layering system. We recommend a hooded model. This layer must fit well over your midlayer top and baselayer top.

Men's OR Ferrosi Hoody

Women's Arc'teryx Gamma LT Hoody

Hardshell Jacket

A non-insulated, fully waterproof shell jacket with a hood. We recommend durable three-layer fabric. Goretex Pro Shell or a similar eVent fabric will offer the most durability and long-term weather protection. This layer must fit comfortably over your baselayer, midlayer, softshell, and potentially a lightweight insulated layer. Helmet-compatible hoods are required.

Men's North Face L5

Women's North Face L5 Jacket

Lightweight Insulated Jacket

We recommend a lightweight insulated jacket to serve either as a layering piece or as stand-alone insulation when appropriate. This may be filled with down or synthetic insulation.

TNF Men's L3 Down Hoodie

TNF Women's L3 Down Hoodie

Expedition Down Parka

An 8000-meter rated, expedition ready parka. This parka must be in excellent condition, fully baffled, and should be recently cleaned with Nikwax Down Wash to ensure maximum loft. We recommend calling to discuss your parka choice, as this item is key to success on any expedition.

Rab Expedition 8000 Jacket

Arc'teryx Women's Firebee AR Parka

No One-Piece Suits

Please note that one-piece down suits are NOT appropriate for this trip. Do not bring a down suit; instead, bring an expedition parka and insulated synthetic pants. Down suits will not be allowed on this trip.

Insulated Synthetic Pants

A synthetic insulated pant with full-length separating side zips. Ski pants are typically not appropriate for this layer.

Rab Photon Pants

Lightweight Liner Gloves

Very lightweight wool or synthetic liner gloves that offer a snug, comfortable fit. Lighter colors absorb less sunlight while still offering UV protection. Black or dark-color gloves are also acceptable.

OR Chroma Full Sun Gloves

OR Women's PL Base Gloves

Softshell Gloves

Midweight, lightly insulated gloves for use when mittens are too warm and liner gloves are not warm enough. Leather-palm construction is always ideal for the sake of durability.

Rab Men's Baltoro Glove

Rab Women's Baltoro Glove

Insulated Shell Gloves

One pair of warm shell gloves with insulated removable liners. Excellent for use when conditions are too cold for softshell gloves, but too warm for expedition mittens. We recommend models with a durable leather palm.

Black Diamond Guide glove

Expedition Mittens

Expedition-rated mittens with an insulated removable liner. Please be sure this mitten is the warmest model available by any manufacturer.

Outdoor Research Men's Alti Mitts

Outdoor Research Women's Alti Mitts

Buff

A must-have for all outdoor activities, the UV Buff is a versatile replacement for the bandana and serves a multitude of purposes.

UV Buff

Sun Hat

Any style of lightweight hat for shading the head will work well. Baseball caps and sombrero-style sun hats are the most common.

District AAI Trucker Hat

30th Anniversary Hat

Balaclava System

Two full balaclavas, one heavyweight and one lightweight, that will comfortably layer together. These items are not replaced by a Buff.

Rab Shadow Balaclava

Rab PS Pro Balaclava

Wool/Synthetic Ski Hat

A non-cotton wool or synthetic hat that covers the head and ears comfortably.

AAI Logo Feather Beanie

Facemask

Neoprene models are recommended; be sure your facemask is sized well to your face. Balaclavas with built-in facemasks will also work well.

Seirus Original Neoprene Masque

Glacier Glasses

High-quality glacier glasses offering full coverage around both eyes and across the nose. Removable side-shields are not required provided eye coverage is sufficient.

Julbo Glacier Glasses

Ski Goggles

High-quality goggles for sun and wind protection at altitude. The lens should offer visible light transmission (VLT) of no more than 30%. Those with light-sensitive eyes may wish to use a darker lens. Photochromic models are ideal for use in changing conditions. See here for more.

Zeal Optics Goggles

Nose Guard

Nose guards are optional, but can be useful for those with extra-sensitive noses in lieu of constant sunscreen application.

Expedition Climbing Pack

A 75-105 liter climbing pack designed with climber-specific features and an internal frame. The volume you choose depends on experience level packing and gear quality. If opting for a pack smaller than 100 liters, practice packing to be sure you can efficiently use a smaller sized pack.

Mountain Hardwear BMG 105

Osprey Women's Xena 85

-40 Down Sleeping Bag

This sleeping bag should be appropriately rated to -40 degrees. Down bags are a must- synthetic bags are overly bulky and heavy when rated below 0-degrees.

Rab Expedition 1400

Inflatable Sleeping Pad

A full-length, modern inflatable sleeping pad is recommended. Older-style three-quarter length pads have been superseded by ultralight full-length pads. We recommend bringing a valve repair/body patch kit.

Therm-A-Rest NeoAir X-Lite Pad

Foam Pad

This pad should be either 3/4 or body length. Cut pieces of closed cell foam or industrially-crafted pads are both acceptable.

Therm-A-Rest Z-Lite Sol Pad

Water Bottle Parkas

Bring two fully insulated water bottles parkas with zippered openings. Neoprene 'cozy' style constructions do not provide enough insulation and are not recommended.

Outdoor Research Water Bottle Parka

Water Bottles

Two to three one-litre capacity bottles. Bottles should be wide mouth made of co-polyester (BPA free plastic). No water bag or bladder systems (they freeze or are hard to fill) and no metal bottles (they have a tendency to freeze).

AAI Logo 1L Nalgene

Mug

One insulated outdoor-style mug with a removable lid. Your mug should retain heat well and be spill resistant. Models with 12-20 oz capacity generally work best.

Sea to Summit Delta InsulMug

Bowl

One two-cup capacity packable bowl. Models with a lid (like a Tupperware) work well, as do lidless bowls and flatter "deep plate" models. Collapsible models can suffice, but must be handled very carefully to avoid unintended collapsing.

MSR Deep Dish Plate

Knife

Medium-sized. Keep it simple and light.

Gerber Evo Jr.

Pee Bottle (1-1.5 Liter)

One wide-mouth, clearly marked collapsible container or wide-mouthed bottle for use overnight.

Hunersdorf 1L Bottle

Pee Funnel (for Women)

Optional. Practice is critical for the use of this item.

Freshette Feminine Urinary Director

Spoon

One durable hard plastic or anodized metal spoon. Longer spoon stems can be helpful for eating while wearing gloves.

Sea to Summit Alpha Light Long Spoon

Trash Compactor Bags

Three bags for use as waterproof pack/stuff sack liners. Compactor bags are made from a heavy plastic and stand up well to prolonged mountain use.

Husky Compactor Bags

Camera

Optional. Small point-and-shoot cameras (including compact SLR's) are ideal & work well at altitude. Alternatively, many opt to use a smartphone camera. Due to weight & care in the mountain environment, large dSLR cameras are discouraged.

Small Duffel

This item can double as carry-on luggage for your flight, and is used to store any items you do not plan to take into the mountains. Think light and simple, with 40-50 liters of total capacity. Bring a travel lock for peace of mind.

Osprey Transporter 40

Toiletry Bag

Include toilet paper (stored in a plastic bag), hand sanitizer, toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, and wet wipes. Choose a quantity appropriate for the length of your trip, and call the Gear Department with any questions about these items.

Outdoor Research Mesh Ditty Sacks

Sunscreen

One to two ounces of SPF 30+ sunscreen. Varieties with zinc-oxide are more protective! One ounce is typically sufficient per week, but several small tubes can offer insurance against lost or exploded tubes. Sunscreen loses SPF rating over time; we strongly recommend brand-new sunscreen.

Z-Cote SPF 36 1oz

Lipscreen

Several tubes of SPF 30+ lipscreen. As with sunscreen, be sure your lipscreen is new.

Aloe Gator SPF 30 Lip Balm

Expedition Duffel Bag

An approximately 150-liter expedition-ready duffel bag used to transport all gear.

The North Face Base Camp Duffel XXL

Small Personal First-Aid Kit

Basic medical supplies in a compact package. We recommend basic painkillers, Moleskin, first-aid tape, Band-Aids, and anti-septic wipes or gel.

UL/WT .3 Medical Kit

Medications & Prescriptions

Bring any personal prescriptions, plus Pepto Bismol, Cipro (500mg tablets), Z-Paks (250mg tablets), Diamox (125mg tablets, approx. 2 per day at altitude), and a variety of standard painkillers like Excedrin Extra Strength, Ibuprofen, etc.

Hand Sanitizer

Many alcohol-based hand cleaners will work well. Bring a small amount appropriate to the trip duration.

Hand Sanz with Aloe

Hand and Toe Warmers

Bring three sets of each. Please note that toe warmers are different than hand warmers. They are formulated to work in a lower oxygen environment, like the inside of a boot, they also burn out more quickly.

Little Hotties Adhesive Toe Warmers

Food

Please review the food and water information available in your Climber Information Packet. A close reading of this information is important towards a smooth trip. We recommend taking plenty of time consider this information. Please contact the Gear Department with any food-related questions.

Food & Drink

Travel Clothes

Clean 'town' clothing is recommend for use traveling as well as pre-and-post trip. We recommend bringing a comfortable variety of clothing for peace of mind, including some t-shirts.