Paperwork
Please take the time to read the entire Logistics section in full. If you have questions, feel free to call the Alpine Ascents office or email us.
Make sure you have submitted the following paperwork to Alpine Ascents.
⎕ Application
⎕ Passport copy
⎕ Flight itinerary
⎕ Evacuation Insurance (required)
Trip Insurance & Evacuation Coverage
We highly recommend trip insurance as there are many unforeseen circumstances that can occur leading up to a trip. Evacuation coverage, however, is required for this trip. Evacuation insurance is not ‘insurance,’ as one must usually contact the insurance company prior to evacuation, and the insurance agency will make payment to directly to those conducting the evacuation. You can find information about our providers here.
The requirements for the insurance for this trip are as follows:
- Insurance must include “ALPINISM” (above 7000 m.)
- Host country must be indicated (Kyrgyzstan)
- The total amount of coverage of the policy is NOT LESS than 30,000 USD
- The dates of the insurance policy must coincide with the dates of stay in Kyrgyzstan
- The insurance policy must cover the “transportation of the injured”. The amount of transportation coverage has to be at least 20,000 USD
Please feel free to reach out if you have any questions.
Getting There
Please note the arrival date in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan on your day-to-day itinerary listed on your confirmation letter. Please ensure that your flight arrives in Bishkek by early afternoon on your arrival date as this will allow you to meet the group in the evening. Flight reservations for your expedition should be made as soon as possible.
If you would like the assistance of a travel agency, we can recommend our friends at Exito Travel. Please e-mail or mail a copy of your flight itinerary to our offices. We will review your itinerary to ensure you will arrive on time.
If traveling through India please note that that you cannot bring a satellite phone or two-way texting device into India as per the India government. Failure to comply can result in immediate arrest, large fines, the confiscation of the device, deportation, and significant travel delays.
Getting to Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan
For those arriving early or departing after the scheduled itinerary, we are happy to make hotel and airport transfer arrangements. Please contact our office in advance of your departure if you would like us to make additional reservations for you.
Arrival: We will pick you up at the airport. Please look for an Alpine Ascents sign upon leaving the terminal. It is very rare that we miss a pick up. You can also reach out to directly to your guide.
Visas & Passports
Kyrgyzstan may require climbers to secure travel visas. Climbers from the United States do not need to secure visas if their trip does not exceed 60 days. If you reside outside the United States please verify if a visa is needed with your local government. Please see Kyrgyzstan’s e-Visa details here: https://www.evisa.e-gov.kg/
Please be advised that you must have a valid US passport that does not expire for at least 6 months from date of entry for most countries and have blank pages available in your passport. Alpine Ascents is happy to work closely with all climbers to determine visa/entry requirements.
Hotel In Bishkek and Osh
Our pricing is based on double rooming. Single Room Supplements are available for those interested in a single room and should be requested at time of registration. For an additional fee, we can reserve single rooms in Bishkek and Osh. Climbers should plan for shared rooms at IMC “Pamir” and shared mountain camps at Camps 1, 2, and 3 while climbing.
In Bishkek
Shah Palace
Bishkek, Koenkozova, 110
+996 (508) 997 799
www.shahpalace.kg/en/
Gear List
Please review the annotated gear list below. We certainly understand that you may have personal preferences and have tested gear and gear systems in the field, but encourage you to contact us with any significant variations from the gear list.
Our gear lists are updated regularly, but some brands and models do change. You are required to bring every item on the list. We are happy to work closely with you on finding the proper gear. Please note that we flying in small planes with limited space so please adhere to the gear list as much as possible.
Alpine Ascents does not require climbers to bring any food. That said if you want to bring up to a 1lb plastic bag of your favorite power bars and drink mix, you are welcome to do.
If you plan to rent gear, your rental form must be submitted at least a month prior to expedition start date. Please call our office or e-mail [email protected] with any questions.
Gear Lexicon
If need more information about items and/or language on the Gear List, we encourage you to refer to our Gear Guide for explanations on layering systems, differences between boots, etc.
Other Resources
Below are articles written by veteran Alpine Ascents guides that you may find helpful in preparing and packing for your expedition.
Medications & Prescriptions for Mountain Climbing
Not on the Gear List, but in our Backpacks
Packing Tips
People generally take too much “stuff” rather than too little. Study each item before you pack it. Eliminate redundant items, extra changes of clothing, and excessive “nice to have” luxuries. You will benefit from traveling light because of the costs of excess baggage and because of the frequent loading and unloading of bags. Take everything on the required equipment list and little else. Remember to review your airline’s weight limits and pack accordingly. If your airline enforces a strict weight limit, you should be ready to have your boots and another heavy item transferred to your carry on.
Breakfast and Dinners Provided
Alpine Ascents will provide all breakfasts and dinners during your expedition. You are expected to bring supplemental lunch/snack food. Lunch is the most important meal of the day on climbing trips, and as the saying goes, “Lunch starts after breakfast and ends at dinner.” It is important that you have lunches you truly enjoy eating in quantity and will give you the proper amount of carbohydrates, fats, and proteins to perform at your best.
Food you need to bring
Of the items mentioned below (energy/candy/granola), you need to bring approximately 35 pieces. Each item should have at least 150 to 200 calories and weight approximately 1.5 to 2.5 oz. Mix and match. Pick your personal favorites.
Energy Bars: ProBars, Luna Bars, Cliff Bars, Lara Bars, etc. You should pick your favorites and have some variety in them. Be mindful of their consistency at cold temperatures.
Energy Gels/Chews: Some climbers like using GU or other energy gels/chews on summit day. If you like these gels/chews (they can be very useful for quick energy) plan on bringing around 6 packets. Honey Stinger Stroopwafels, Shot Bloks, ProBar Bolts, and similar are all good options.
Energy Drinks (strongly recommended): These are small packets of drink mix that you put into your water bottle. They help replenish electrolytes and make it easier for climbers drink more fluids. Especially at altitude when you may not feel like drinking, these are a huge help. Using drink mix is strongly encouraged, though not required. We recommend Nuun, Crystal light, Emergen-C, Gatorade, etc. You may also consider specialized endurance hydration mixes with calories, like Tailwind, Gu Roctane, Skratch Labs, etc., though these are more expensive options. Choose packets that are very small, lightweight, add flavor, and contain electrolytes and other ingredients like vitamin C. If you like these type of drink mixes, plan on one or two packets per day (21 to 42 packets).
Granola Bars / Hard Candy (Optional): We also recommend that you bring 8-12 granola bars (these contain fewer calories than standard energy bars) and about 60 individually wrapped pieces of your favorite hard sucking candy (e.g. Life Savers, Werther’s), which help keep your throat from drying out in the dry alpine environment. Ricola Lozenges can also be a good supplement.
Expenses
With regards to personal expenses, bringing some cash in conjunction with using ATM in is generally best.
Money: Most climbers change $500 into Kyrgystani Som before departing on the climb. Climbers generally take an additional $500-$1000 (including ATM use) for expenses, some tips and emergencies.
Drinks: While we provide boiled water throughout the trek to drink at meal times, some climbers will choose to buy bottled bottled drinks like beer, soda, or water. These drinks are available at IMC “Pamir.”
Early Departure/Evacuation
If you need to leave the expedition early, you are responsible for all incurred expenses (evacuation fees, transport, extra hotel nights, etc.). A comprehensive trip insurance plan is recommended, which can cover these costs in the event that they occur.
Tipping
It is customary for climbers to tip about $400 – $600 for the local staff. (Guide will collect and distribute). Alpine Ascents guides can accept and will greatly appreciate tips. If you have a positive experience, gratuities are an excellent way to show your appreciation. It’s always hard to recommend a specific amount as we believe tips should be based on level and quality of services, as well as an amount that meets your budget. Please consider the information below to be merely a guideline. Amounts are at your discretion and should be based on your level of satisfaction and ability. For Alpine Ascents guides, 10-20% of the total trip cost per guide team is a very general guideline. If you plan to tip by check, please make it out to the lead guide by name. Please do not make the check out to Alpine Ascents. As always, we are happy to discuss this in more detail.
On the Mountain
Physiology Of Mountaineering
Dehydration, hypothermia, frostbite, and altitude illness are all important health conditions to be aware of while climbing. Please read our overview of these physical factors:
Food & Water
We are all aware of the potential monotony of expedition food and Alpine Ascents makes every effort to make expedition food as enjoyable as possible. We work hard to have a diverse menu with fresh and nutritious options but this can be limited by availability and remoteness of region
Health Tips
You may want to consult your physician for advice on treatments for gastrointestinal upsets that you may encounter on your trip. In the past, climbers have relied on antibiotics such as Ciprofloxacin. Your doctor may recommend medications such as Lomotil or Imodium to stop diarrhea, and Compazine to prevent nausea.
Leave No Trace
Alpine Ascents International practices Leave No Trace principles on all expeditions. We believe that given the proper information most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment. Before your climb, please become familiar with Leave No Trace:
7 Principles of Leave No Trace
As guides, we spend time teaching the environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principles and practices. There is nothing more rewarding than working hard to get high into the mountains, reaching a pristine campsite, witnessing incredible views, and having the feeling that no one has been there before.
Conversely, there is nothing more disheartening than working hard to climb a mountain, reaching a site and encountering trash, food waste, and toilet paper. Please read the seven LNT principles, and call the office if you have any questions about what you can do to plan ahead.
I was very impressed by the whole experience. It lived up to all of my expectations. It has been my dream to climb Denali for quite a while now and AAI and the awesome guides made it possible. I can’t say enough good things about the guide team I had.
