Continued unseasonable weather has dominated the PNW. May 2023 has been one of the driest on record with often sunny and clear skies dominating the Cascades. Throughout early June the same weather pattern has continued and forecast models are showing possibly 90’s in the Seattle area by the middle of this week. The phenomenal weather has led to many summits over the past week from Tahoma to Komo Kulsan and many peaks between the two massive volcanoes.
Tahoma (Mt. Rainier)
Teams have been reaching the summit daily! Our second Kautz trip reached the summit with 100% success. Currently the Kautz ice chute is in good climbing conditions with firm neve steep snow. On the Emmons glacier, the route the path up to Camp Shurman is following the Inter Glacier. Once at Camp Shurman the route travels up and through a series of large crevasse to reach the “corridor”. From the top of the corridor, the route traverses out towards the west on the upper glacier. Guides reported firm cramponing conditions with little sign of a developed climbing path. We have an Emmons climb on the mountain now and will have an update once the guides return from the field.
On the Muir route, the path to Camp Muir is following the summer trail up through Pebble Creek. There is a very well established path up on the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir. Above Camp Muir, the route is well established as it traverse across the Cowlitz glacier and over to Ingraham Flats (High Camp). Over the weekend guide teams moved the route from the ID (Ingraham Direct) to the Disappointment Cleaver. The majority of the route on the DC is dry and in good climbing conditions. Once on top of the Cleaver the route to the summit is direct.
Komo Kulshan (Mount Baker) & North Cascades
Over the past week we have had mountaineering courses and summit climbs on both the North and South Side of Mount Baker. Guides report good direct climbing on both routes. The snow is melting quickly on the southside and soon we will be able to park at the trailhead. Please note, the Northside of Baker trailhead is not anticipated to be repaired until later in the summer/fall at this time. In the heart of the North Cascades we have reports that Shuksan, Forbidden Peak, and Eldorado are all in great climbing shape with the snow line around 4’000ft on most approach trails. In Washington Pass, the vast majority of snow has melted with small patches of snow lingering. Currently crampons are needed to access specific routes that hold snow longer like the Beckey route on Liberty Bell and Cutthroat Peak. All the rock climbs in Washington Pass are dry and plenty of climbers enjoying the sunny weather.
Happy Climbing,
AAI Team
