There has been a weather pattern change in the Pacific Northwest with seasonal temperatures returning to the region. A mixture of precipitation and sunny skies is forecasted for the remainder of the week and weekend.
Tahoma (Mt. Rainier)
Climber success has been phenomenal during the first part of June with teams reaching the summit daily. Our 3rd Kautz team of the year tagged the summit on June 13. Guides report good climbing conditions in the ice chute. Over on the Emmons glacier, the climbing route up to Camp Shurman is following the Inter Glacier. Once at Camp Shurman the route travels up and through a series of large crevasse to reach the “corridor”. From the top of the corridor, the route traverses out towards the west on the upper glacier and towards the Liberty Cap Saddle. Our 3rd Emmons climb of the season is making a summit attempt today, June 15. On the Muir route, the path to Camp Muir is following the summer trail up through Pebble Creek. There is a very well established path up on the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir. Above Camp Muir, the route is well established as it traverse across the Cowlitz glacier and over to Ingraham Flats (High Camp). Over the weekend guide teams moved the route from the ID (Ingraham Direct) to the Disappointment Cleaver. The majority of the route on the DC is dry and in good climbing conditions. Once on top of the Cleaver the route to the summit is direct.
Komo Kulshan (Mount Baker) & North Cascades
Over the past week we have had mountaineering courses and summit climbs on both the North and South Side of Mount Baker. Guides report good direct climbing on both routes. The snow is melting quickly on the southside and soon we will be able to park at the trailhead. Please note, the Northside of Baker trailhead is not anticipated to be repaired until later in the summer/fall at this time. In the heart of the North Cascades we have reports that Shuksan, Forbidden Peak, and Eldorado are all in great climbing shape with the snow line around 4’000ft on most approach trails. In Washington Pass, the vast majority of snow has melted with small patches of snow lingering. Currently crampons are needed to access specific routes that hold snow longer like the Beckey route on Liberty Bell and Cutthroat Peak. All the rock climbs in Washington Pass are dry and plenty of climbers enjoying the sunny weather.
