This past week we have had a return of “June-ary” with stormy weather along the Cascade crest. Teams on Rainier experienced snow and windy conditions getting to Camp Muir, but sunny skies above 10,000ft. Check out the recent video on our Instagram of guide Nate Sievert reaching the summit of Rainier. In the northern part of the state teams on Mt Baker reported 4-6” of new snow at the 6000ft camp. Coming into the weekend the weather pattern is forecasted to be stable with a chance of afternoon thunderstorms in the southern part of the state.
Tahoma (Mt. Rainier)
Our recent Emmons trip was not able to reach the summit due to challenging weather conditions. On the Muir route, climbers have continued to reach the summit on most trips. On both routes guides are reporting good climbing conditions. We currently have a team on the Kautz making a summit attempt today/tomorrow. At this time, climbers are still using double boots from the parking lot as the vast majority of trails to Camp Muir are snowy and muddy. We anticipate switching to single boots in early/mid July depending on the weather pattern.
Komo Kulshan (Mount Baker) & North Cascades
Over the past week we have had mountaineering courses and summit climbs on both the North and South Side of Mount Baker. On the southside of Mt Baker we have guided groups climbing the Easton and Squawk glacier route. All routes are in excellent climbing condition at this time. The approach to camps are still 2/3 snow covered and we are wearing boots from the parking lot still. We anticipate switching to using approach shoes in a few weeks once more of the snow melts on the approach.
In the North Cascades reports are good climbing conditions on Forbidden Peak, Eldorado, and Shuksan. Technical alpine ridges are starting to be come mostly snow free below 8000ft. In the Washington Pass zone the vast majority of season snow is melted in the Liberty Bell group. Some of the climbing areas still require traveling on snow, but it is melting quickly. This week we have our first Glacier Peak climb and soon we be launching our first Olympus climb.
Thank you for following our blog and happy climbing!
