Greetings follow climbers!
Summer is in full swing in the PNW. The Paradise snotel has officially hit 0” of snow on the ground! This past week has been another glorious week of sunny and hot weather in the Cascades. The forecast for the next week looks to be more of the same, so be sure to bring plenty of sunscreen and water when heading into the mountains!
Currently, climbers on Mt Rainier and Mt Baker have switched to using single boots and using approach shoes on the lower mountain trails. As always, guides might recommend switching back to double boots if conditions change.
Koma Kulshan (Mount Baker) & North Cascades
Guides are reporting that Koma Kulshan is in some of the best shape they have seen in years. The route on the Southside (Easton) is direct with little crevasse bridges, and the Easton Headwall is in phenomenal condition with a well-established path. The approach is almost 100% snow free to Sandy Camp with snow only for the last 10-15mins. With the trails being mostly snow free, we recommend that climbers to use trail shoes to approach camp. On the Northside teams have reported great climbing conditions on the Coleman Deming and the North Ridge routes.
In other parts of the Cascades teams have enjoyed great conditions and continued summit Mt Adams, Olympus, and Glacier Peak over the recent week. This week we have trips climbing Boston Basin, Shuksan, and other remote climbs in the North Cascades. In all these areas, guides have noted that, with the snow melting, the mosquitos have come out. For those camping in lower elevations (treeline) we recommend using bug spray at this time.
Tahoma (Mount Rainier)
Over the week, not much has changed getting up to Camp Muir. The route is dry to Pebble Creek and we are recommending using trail shoes to hike to the Muir snowfield. Over the past week the Muir route has changed due to a large crevasse bridge collape. The new route climbs the Disappointment Cleaver and once on top of the Cleaver the route traverses South towards Camp Comfort making an ascending traverse. The route steepens for a section to Camp Comfort, and above Camp Comfort the route is direct and connects to the preexisting route at 13,500. Our recent 3 Day Muir climb summit yesterday with a stunning sunrise (see photo).
Just across the way on the Kautz guides noted icier late season conditions on the route. Our 10 Day Mountaineering team had 100% summit success on Tuesday. The 10 Day spent the first part of the course on Mt Baker learning and applying technical skills, before putting these skills to the test climbing the Kautz. The progress of the program allows for a high chance of climber success on the technical steep snow/ice route.
Over on the Northside of Rainier, the Emmons glacier is in good shape and we currently have a team at high camp looking to summit tomorrow. Similar to the Muir route, we strongly recommend trail shoes to approach glacier basin.
Lastly, with the warmer temperatures guides at the gear check have been adjusting the required equipment list to match the current conditions. Please understand that the gear list is a tool for packing based on all weather conditions and upon arrival at the gear check, the guide might adjust based on the short-term forecast.
Thank you for following our blog, and happy climbing!
We provide a weekly conditions report. Stay tuned for next week’s update!
