Greetings climbers,
Summer continues to deliver prime climbing conditions throughout the Cascades. After a stretch of minor precipitation, the forecast is calling for several days of mild temperatures, plenty of sunshine, and only light winds. Overnight freezing levels remain favorable for glacier travel, helping preserve route conditions across the range. With stable weather, moderate temperatures, and excellent route conditions throughout the Cascades, this is shaping up to be one of the best weeks of the summer to get into the mountains.
Mt. Rainier (Tahoma)
The Muir Route continues to provide excellent climbing conditions and remains the primary guided route to the summit. Recent snowfall and cooler temperatures have helped keep the route in great shape, with well-defined boot packs and solid snow bridges. Guides continue to make minor adjustments around changing crevasses as needed, but the route remains direct and efficient. Climbers should still expect a few steeper sections where fixed running protection is in place. Teams climbing from Camp Schurman have also reported straightforward climbing on the Emmons Route. We have switched to single boots for climbing Rainier at this point in the season.
Mt. Baker (Koma Kulshan)
Climbing conditions on Mount Baker haven’t changed much. The Easton Glacier continues to offer straightforward travel, although crevasses are becoming more pronounced as the season progresses. Route finding remains uncomplicated, and teams are moving efficiently through the glacier. The southside camp is almost snow-free, so climbers can lounge in the rocks after big days on the mountain. North-side routes are also holding up well with very few changes over the past week. The road washout remains in effect, so climbers heading toward Hogsback Camp should continue to plan for the additional hiking time on the approach.
Cascades
Elsewhere in the Cascades, climbers continue to report outstanding conditions across the range. Recent groups just had dry approaches, sunshine, and solid granite for climbing around Washington Pass and on the Goat Wall. Mt Adams remains in excellent shape and groups have been camping on dry rock with running water at the Lunch Counter. Lastly, teams are back out on Mt Olympus with last week’s climbing team experiencing beautiful weather and stellar climbing out on the peninsula.
Happy climbing!
