Tahoma (Mt. Rainier)
We have officially finished our climbing season on the Kautz and Emmons routes for the summer. We had great success on both routes this summer, with 6 of our 7 Kautz teams reaching the summit and 8 of our 10 Emmons teams reaching the summit. We look forward to returning to both routes in the 2024 season! On the Muir route, we are still seeing teams summiting daily. Looking back on our season thus far we have seen around 90% of our 3 Day Muir teams summit Tahoma. We hope to continue our success into the end of the season!
On the Muir route, the trail to the Muir snowfield is snow free. We have switched to using trail shoes to access the Pebble Creek. Once on the Muir snowfield climbers are switching to mountain boots. The seasonal snow on the Muir snowfield is melting quickly and sections have melted out already to bare ice and rock. Climbers are now renting crampons from the Alpine Ascents office and may be using them while on the Muir snowfield, guides will determine if they are needed while on the route. Above Camp Muir the route is in good condition with teams summiting daily. There is a well established climbing path across the Cowlitz to reach high camp. The seasonal snow on Cathedral Gap has melted off, climbers can expect to travel on dirt through this section. Above high camp the route ascends the Abraham, crosses a ladder at High Crack and traverses to the Disappointment Cleaver. Seasonal snow on the DC has melted off, the route climbs on a broken dirt path. From the top of the Cleaver, the route is becoming more broken with crevasses. While the route is established it is slowly becoming more challenging and exposed as it traverses out to the Emmons. Climbers should anticipate crossing several ladders above the DC with the route taking an approximate 4.5 hours from Ingraham Flats to the Columbia Crest.
Komo Kulshan (Mount Baker) & North Cascades
Our 3 Day and 6 Day teams on Komo Kulshan are still summiting regularly. All the camps on Kulshan have running water and trail shoes are recommend to access camps. The Easton route is in great shape, some crevasses are opening but guides are still navigating the terrain well. Over in the North Cascades National Park guides have been climbing Shuksan both via the Sulfide and Fisher Chimney route. Both are in excellent condition, running water at camp and the Shuksan summit pyramid is snow free. Deeper in the North Cascades teams on Forbidden Peak are climbing the West Ridge via the Cat Scratch gullies. A recent large rockfall event took place on the approach to Sharkfin tower and at this time we are not guiding that route. Outside North Cascades National Park, teams have been climbing successfully on Mt Olympus and Glacier peak both mountains are in excellent condition. There is a road closure on Highway 20 due to the Sourdough Fire, the road is closed between mile parkers 120 (Newhalem) and 139 (NPS boundary).
