Island Peak 2019 – Klimbers Start Towards Island Peak

Posted on April 9, 2019April 10, 2019 by Alpine Ascents

Namaste friends, family and loved ones!

After an early morning jam session we headed up the valley East of Everest. Clouds, to our dismay, came in too soon as we trekked always along. When we arrived in Chakung, we practiced our mountaineering skills. Now we feel comfortable with our fix line techniques, we will move to Island Peak Base Camp tomorrow.

Our big challenge will be the crazy weather that’s been hounding us throughout our acclimatization trekking. The mountain looks great from here.

All my best,
Vern

Rainier

8.3.20: The upper mountain has been changing over the past two weeks with prolonged above normal seasonal temperatures. Paradise trails are pretty much snow free with only a few sections of lingering snow patches. From Camp Muir, there is a climber friendly traverse across the Cowlitz Glacier. From Ingraham Flats, the route ascends around 400' and crosses a series of crevasses before traversing onto the Cleaver. Access onto the Cleaver is straightforward and in good condition. From the top of the Cleaver, the route ascends several switchbacks before making a hard right traverse at 12,800' heading out towards the Emmons shoulder. The traverse is currently in good condition with several fixed pickets for running belays. Overall, the route is well established, easy to follow, and well wanded.

Baker

8.3.20: Overall conditions on Mt Baker (Komo Kulshan) are excellent. The trail is free to Sandy Camp. Our camp is partially on snow and melting fast. There is running water. Approach shoes are an excellent choice for the hike to camp. The Easton Glacier is in great condition with a direct route to the summit. Most teams are reporting easy travel on the upper mountain with good cramponing conditions.

Atmos Weather

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Island Peak 2019 – Klimbers Start Towards Island Peak

ALPINE ASCENTS BLOG

Women’s-Specific Climbing Tips

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