Greetings Climbers,
Happy Monday from Alpine Ascents!
The past week on Mount Rainier has been a reminder of just how quickly conditions can change in the Cascades. Late last week, a strong storm moved through the region, depositing an estimated 2–3 feet of new snow above 10,000 feet. Guides reported winter-like conditions on the upper mountain, with cold temperatures, wind, and fresh snow affecting travel and route work.
Fast forward just a few days, and the weather has shifted dramatically. Today, climbers are enjoying sunny skies, very warm temperatures, and freezing levels above 15,000 feet. Temperatures in Seattle are expected to reach 90°F, and the mountain is already responding to the rapid warming.
Over the weekend, Alpine Ascents guide teams were busy performing route work above Camp Muir. As conditions evolved, guides officially transitioned the climbing route from the Ingraham Direct to the Disappointment Cleaver Route. The Disappointment Cleaver is currently in excellent condition, and our team today successfully summited via the new route. At this time, there are no ladders in place on the route. Climbers will encounter only a few sections of running belays, which is very typical for this time of year. Overall, guides are reporting straightforward travel and good climbing conditions above Camp Muir.
The recent warm temperatures have accelerated melting on the lower mountain. The trail from Paradise to Glacier Vista is now approximately 80% snow-free and continuing to melt rapidly. Above that, the Muir Snowfield remains in excellent condition and is heavily traveled by climbers, skiers, and hikers making their way toward Camp Muir.
As always, conditions on Mount Rainier can change quickly. With the recent snowfall followed by a significant warming trend, climbers should expect changing snow conditions throughout the week and be prepared for both firm morning travel and softer snow later in the day.
We look forward to seeing you in the mountains.
The Alpine Ascents Guide Team
