Hello climbers,
The past week has brought a mix of classic spring Cascade conditions, with warm temperatures early in the week followed by a return to cooler weather, stronger winds, and periods of precipitation across the range. While snowpack remains below average for this time of year, climbers continue to find good climbing conditions on the major glaciated peaks, and overall mountain access remains excellent. Recent weather systems have helped preserve snow coverage at higher elevations while keeping travel conditions variable from day to day.
Mount Rainier (Tahoma)
Our most recent climb reached the summit today via the Ingraham Direct (ID) route. Guides reported generally good travel conditions on the upper mountain and firm snow surfaces. There are currently 3 ladders in place on the Ingraham Direct climbing route. Our guide teams have also been actively working on the Disappointment Cleaver (DC) route. While the Ingraham Direct remains the primary climbing route at this time, we anticipate a transition back to the DC route within the next 7–10 days as crews continue route work and conditions evolve on the upper mountain.
Mount Baker (Koma Kulshan)
Mount Baker continues to offer excellent early-season climbing and skiing conditions. Snow coverage remains good on both the Easton and Coleman-Deming routes, and glacier travel remains relatively straightforward for this time of year. Ski teams are still finding quality turns on the upper mountain, though lower elevations are beginning to show signs of seasonal melt-out. Warm periods earlier in the month accelerated snow loss below treeline, but recent cooler temperatures have slowed that trend.
As always, conditions in the Cascades can change rapidly. Our guide staff continues to monitor routes daily, and we will provide additional updates as the season progresses.
Climb safe and enjoy the start of another great Cascade season!
