Greetings Fellow Climbers,
After a stretch of hot and dry weather across the Cascades, the past week has continued to bring rapid seasonal changes to the glaciers. A few days of rain and cooler temperatures have offered a temporary reprieve, but climbers should be prepared for late-summer conditions across all routes. Looking ahead, high pressure and sunshine are forecasted to return for the final weeks of the season.
Tahoma (Mount Rainier)
Our Emmons Glacier and Kautz Glacier programs officially wrapped up earlier this month, closing out a strong season on both routes. Each year, these climbs typically conclude by early August, and we’re pleased to have finished with successful summits and safe descents. For those interested in joining these routes in 2026, dates will be posted in mid-September. To stay up to date, we encourage you to join our mailing list at the bottom of this page.
On the Muir Route, conditions continue to evolve quickly in reaction to prolonged warm periods. Guides are recommending trail shoes from the parking lot to the start of the Muir Snowfield, when we’ll transition to moving from dry trail to snow. Over the past week, the Muir snowfield has become icy, and most teams are now using crampons both on the ascent and descent. Please note: if you rented crampons you’ll be picking them up from our Seattle office—not at Camp Muir.
Above Camp Muir, the mountain remains in good climbing condition. Teams have been reaching the summit consistently, with the most recent group summiting yesterday in just over four hours from high camp. Climbers should expect to cross three ladders between high camp and 13,000 ft at this time. Seasonal changes are also visible at the Cathedral Gap, where climbers are now moving directly across exposed glacial ice. This is a normal transition for this time of year, but good crampon technique and attention to footwork are essential. Our route work teams are staged on the mountain and working hard to keep the climbing route in viable condition as we move into the final weeks of the season.
North Cascades & Kulshan (Mount Baker)
Nothing significant has changed on Mount Baker or across the North Cascades in the past week. Following the recent rains, conditions remain favorable on Baker, Shuksan, and peaks throughout Washington Pass. Our teams continue to enjoy excellent climbing and spectacular views across the range on our summit climbs and courses. Our teams recently climbed one of the 50 Classic Climbs of North America and one of our personal favorite routes, the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak. Not to be overlooked, this route is a gem and a true classic for any alpinist.
As always, please check in with our guide staff or gear department before your climb for the most up-to-date equipment recommendations and conditions.
We look forward to seeing many of you in the field as we close out another rewarding summer season!
