Early September has seen amazing weather. There have been sunny skies and generally calm winds across the state with little precipitation this month so far. The current weather pattern is status quo as we expect similar weather across the Cascades for the next 5 days. With the dry hot temperatures there is an increase in potential for wildfires and smoke in the Pacific Northwest.
Mount Rainier (Tahoma)
Our 9/5-9/7 Muir climb was successful with 100% of climbers reaching the summit. The prolonged warm temperatures over the past month has caused the route to shift. The hike up to Camp Muir is snow free till the Muir Snowfield. There is a well established track up the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir. From Camp Muir the route crosses the Cowlitz Glacier up towards Ingraham Flats. From High Camp (Ingraham Flats), climbers ascend uphill for approx. 15mins before crossing a triple ladder before reaching the base of the Disappointment Cleaver. From the top of the DC the route ascend uphill and then traverse out right towards the Emmons Glacier. Climbers can expect to encounter adjuncts (ladders, pickets, fixed lines) along the route. Guides reported it is currently taking around 5.5hrs from Ingraham Flats for climbers to reach the summit Columbia Crest.
North Cascades
Komo Kulshan (Mt. Baker)- We have seen little change over past couple weeks. The mountain is climbed daily via the Coleman Deming (CD) and Easton routes. Guides report the mountain is in excellent condition and we look forward to running trips until the end of September. Currently guide teams are reporting excellent climbing conditions on the upper mountain with a well-established track on the Easton and Roman Headwalls. Guides have reported that the Squak Glacier route is becoming broken and difficult to travel. The Schreiber’s Meadow trailhead to access the Easton Glacier is snow free all the way to Sandy Camp. Above Sandy Camp the mountain is still fully snow covered. On the North side of the mountain, FS Road 39 is still closed due to the washout at mile 3.8. Trails are dry to Hogsback camp just below 6,000 ft on the North side. It is unknown at this time when the FS will repair Road 39.
North Cascades – Teams continue to explore the North Cascades, with successful Shuksan, Forbidden, Eldorado, and ascents in the Pickets. Generally the North Cascades have excellent climbing conditions as the ample spring snowfall has helped keep the smaller pocket style glaciers filled in allowing for easy travel. The vast majority of alpine rock and alpine ridgelines are snow free along for technical alpine ascents. Recently guides have reported great climbing conditions on Forbidden Peak and Shuksan noting that conditions are more favorable than previous climbing seasons. Climbing in Washington Pass is snow free now and boots/crampons/ice axe are no longer needed.
