Hello climbers,
A recent storm brought much-needed precipitation to the North Cascades, and our guides have reported heavy rainfall on Mount Baker and throughout North Cascades National Park. This welcome weather has refreshed the landscape and helped maintain excellent climbing conditions across the region. Looking back at the season overall, we’ve also been fortunate to experience little to no wildfire smoke—climbers have celebrated clear skies, crisp views, and cleaner air quality than in previous years. Looking ahead, we’re expecting another round of sunny weather across the state, with a slight cooling trend. With continued warm temperatures and strong solar radiation, be sure to pack sunscreen, stay hydrated, and plan your timing around the heat.
Tahoma (Mount Rainier
Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route
The DC is in excellent condition for late July, with many teams summiting daily. Recent stormy weather has left a light coating of fresh snow and graupel on the upper mountain. Climbers are using trail shoes from Paradise to Pebble Creek. From there, they switch to mountain boots and follow a well-established bootpack through the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir.
Above Camp Muir, the route crosses the Cowlitz Glacier, where crevasses are starting to open. Entering Ingraham Flats, climbers encounter a short section of firm glacial ice requiring solid footwork and good crampon technique. From Ingraham Flats, the route crosses three ladders, starting around 11,200’, followed by a traverse toward the Cleaver. The Disappointment Cleaver itself is fully dry and snow-free. Higher up, climbers will cross two additional ladders—one at 12,800’, followed by a traverse around 13,000’ en route to the Crater Rim.
Emmons & Kautz Routes
We’re gearing up for our final trips of the season on both the Emmons and Kautz routes. Guides from our recent trips report excellent conditions on both. The Emmons route, in particular, has seen little change in recent weeks and remains in solid shape. While large crevasses are present, snow bridges are still holding well. As with the DC route, climbers are encouraged to use trail shoes on the approach to the Inter Glacier.
Kulshan (Mount Baker) & the North Cascades
Our teams continue to find success on Mount Baker (Kulshan), Mount Adams (Klickitat), Mount Olympus, Glacier Peak, Washington Pass, and throughout the greater North Cascades. Across the board, trails are now mostly snow-free up to 5,500–6,000 feet, with ideal snow coverage above for glacier travel. Glaciers across the region remain in great condition for mid-summer climbing, and most teams are hiking in with trail shoes and switching to single mountaineering boots once they reach snowline or treeline.
Bug alert: Mosquitoes and black flies have returned to several lower elevation zones, especially around camps and trailheads below 5,000 feet. Bug spray is highly recommended.
As always, please refer to your gear list when preparing to climb, and consult our office if you have any questions about whether your gear will be a good fit for the conditions ahead.
Happy climbing!
