After an extended stretch of hot and dry weather, this week brought a welcome change with significant rainfall across the North Cascades and even a light dusting of snow on Mount Rainier above Camp Muir. The new precipitation has provided a temporary reset for alpine environments and some relief from wildfire concerns throughout the region. Looking ahead to the weekend, we anticipate high pressure and sunny skies returning to the Pacific Northwest.
Tahoma (Mount Rainier)
Our final Kautz and Emmons climbs wrapped up their climbs last week with successful summits, marking the end of a strong season on those routes. Each year we typically conclude these programs at end of July and early August, and we’re glad to have finished on such a high note. If you are interested in climbing this routes in 2026 we will have our dates posted in mid-September. To stay up-to-date on our release schedule, and next season’s dates, you can join our mailing list at the base of this page.
On the Muir route, the path up to Camp Muir remains consistent, and climbers are walking in trail shoes from the parking lot to the Muir Snowfield. Over the past week, each of our teams have been reaching the summit of Mount Rainier with continued success. Guides have reported that the seasonal snow on the backside of Cathedral Gap has fully melted, and climbers are now traveling directly on glacial ice for that stretch. This is a normal seasonal transition and does not currently present any significant challenges, though proper footwork and crampon technique are essential. As of this morning (August 7th), a crevasse bridge at 12,800 feet collapsed—an anticipated event as the route evolves throughout the season. Our guides are up on the mountain actively working on a reroute to establish a path to the summit. These types of changes are common this time of year, and we have route workers/guides on the mountain specifically for this purpose to help reestablish a climbing route in a short period of time.
North Cascades & Mt Baker (Kulshan) and other Washington Peaks
Elsewhere in the Cascades, teams continue to enjoy excellent climbing conditions on Mount Baker, Mount Shuksan, and throughout Washington Pass. While some routes are beginning to show the signs of late-season glacial change, conditions remain favorable for experienced teams. Our recent Forbidden Peak team called in phenomenal climbing conditions and priceless summit views! As always, we recommend checking in with our gear department or guide team before your trip for the most current conditions and recommended equipment.
We’re looking forward to seeing many of you out in the field as we move into the final stretch of the summer season!
