Greetings follow climbers!
Summer is moving along quickly and we’re already feeling the shorter days. This last week the Cascades and the PNW got hit with a strong seasonal storm that produced heavy rain from Mt Rainier to Mt Baker. Teams on the mountains, especially on Rainier, were impacted by the adverse conditions and paused climbing. The storm has passed and our teams are already back climbing to the summits of mountains around the area. Looking ahead, we have another lovely week forecasted in the Cascades so please make sure you bring plenty of water and sunscreen when heading into the mountains. Climbers on Mt Rainier and Mt Baker continue to use approach shoes on lower mountain trails, and single boots when climbing to the summits of both peaks. As always, guides might recommend switching back to double boots if conditions change.
Koma Kulshan (Mount Baker) & North Cascades
We’re happy to report good climbing conditions on both sides of the mountain. Last week we had our final guided team of the season summit the North Ridge and Coleman Deming route on the North Side of Kulshan. On the Southside, we’re continuing to climb the Easton Glacier route, which remains in phenomenal condition. Our climbers are reaching the summit daily on this route. Both approaches are 100% snow free to base camps so we recommend that climbers to use trail shoes to approach camp. In other parts of the Cascades, teams have enjoyed great conditions and have continued to summit Olympus, Glacier Peak, Shuksan, and other parts of the North Cascades. The Cascade River Road is temporary closed due to a wildfire. We are monitoring the fire and working with the National Park service on resuming climbing in that area.
Tahoma (Mount Rainier)
Our last Emmons trip of the season tagged the summit yesterday, and the team will be walking out and returning to Seattle today. This route is a guide favorite, and we will miss climbing on the Emmons till next year. Over on the Camp Muir route not much has changed getting to Camp Muir. The route above Muire has adjusted a bit over the last week due to changing conditions on the glacier. The new route climbs the Disappointment Cleaver and once on top of the Cleaver it winds up a series of steep steps and a ladder crossing to 13,200. Our team summited this route and we expect it to stay in condition for the time being. Lastly, with the warmer temperatures, guides at the gear check have been adjusting the required equipment list to match the current conditions. Please understand that the gear list is a tool for packing based on all weather conditions and upon arrival at the gear check, the guide might adjust based on the short-term forecast.
Happy climbing!
We provide a weekly conditions report. Stay tuned for future updates.
