Greetings fellow climbers,
We’ve reached the halfway point of July and climbing conditions across the Pacific Northwest remain phenomenal. We have had one of the most stable weather pattern summers in many years. The last few days have been very warm with freezing levels on Mt Rainier over 15,000ft and temperatures in the 90’s in Seattle. However, conditions on the mountain still feel cool, and this morning’s summit team on Rainier reported a cold breeze and down jackets on the upper mountain. The next 10 day forecast shows more of the same and with high pressure aloft climbers can continue to expect sunny skies in the Pacific Northwest. For those of you climbing Mt Rainier, our favorite place to monitor the forecast is from the University of Washington: https://a.atmos.washington.edu/data/rainier_report.html
Tahoma (Mount Rainier)
Each of our Rainier routes begin on dry trail, and we currently recommend that climbers on both the Muir and Emmons routes bring approach or trail shoes. Teams will carry their mountain boots in their packs and make the switch once they reach snow, which is typically 2.5 to 3 hours into the approach.
On the Muir route, the Muir Snowfield is in good condition, with a well-established boot pack leading to Camp. As teams move toward high camp at Ingraham Flats and cross the Cowlitz Glacier, a few crevasses are beginning to open. From Ingraham Flats to the base of the Disappointment Cleaver, glacier travel remains straightforward with a single ladder crossing at the High Crack. Above the Cleaver, climbers should expect a large ascending traverse out toward the Emmons Shoulder, where they will encounter an additional ladder crossing. Once on the Emmons Shoulder, above 13,000 feet, the route trends directly to the summit rim. On our most recent climb, 7 out of 8 climbers reached the summit, with most teams taking between 4 and 5 hours to climb from high camp to summit.
Over on the Emmons route, guides report excellent conditions with a well-traveled climbing track from the trailhead up to Camp Schurman and along the Emmons Glacier itself. Our most recent expedition saw 100% climber success. With only a few more trips scheduled on the Emmons route this season, conditions remain ideal for a successful ascent.
Kulshan (Mount Baker), Klickitat (Mount Adams) & the North Cascades
Alpine Ascents teams are continuing to find success throughout Washington, with recent summits on Mount Adams, Mount Olympus, Glacier Peak, Washington Pass, and in the broader North Cascades. As we move into the heart of July, trails in the Northern Cascades are largely snow-free up to elevations of approximately 5,500 to 6,000 feet. Higher up, snow coverage remains ideal for climbing and glacier travel, and the glaciers themselves are still in great shape. With summer conditions taking hold, most teams are now approaching in trail shoes and transitioning to single mountaineering boots above treeline.
Our teams have noted that mosquitoes are starting to return in some regions, particularly in forested or low-elevation zones below 5,000 feet—bug spray is strongly recommended for those spending time around camp or on approach. Whether you’re new to mountaineering or coming back for another summit, we’re looking forward to seeing you out in the mountains this season.
