Hello climbers,
We’ve had a stable week of weather across the North Cascades, with a welcome cooling trend settling in. Forecasts show more of the same on the horizon, with chances of isolated thunderstorms over the Cascade Crest. Overall, conditions remain favorable for climbing and travel in the alpine.
We’ve also been fortunate to experience little to no wildfire smoke this season—climbers continue to enjoy clear skies, expansive views, and cleaner air quality compared to previous years. Looking ahead to next week, cooler temperatures are expected to continue, but with strong sun at higher elevations, it’s still important to stay well-hydrated, wear sunscreen, and plan your schedule to avoid peak heat hours.
Tahoma (Mount Rainier)
Disappointment Cleaver (DC) Route
The Disappointment Cleaver route is currently in excellent shape, with guides reporting a direct and efficient line to the summit. Thanks to the recent cooling trend, the route is holding up well, and climbers are successfully reaching the summit daily. With such favorable conditions, teams are making the ascent from high camp to the summit in as little as 4.5 hours. Climbers are beginning their approach from Paradise in trail shoes, then switching to mountain boots at Pebble Creek. From there, a well-established bootpack leads through the Muir Snowfield to Camp Muir.
Above Camp Muir, the route crosses the Cowlitz Glacier, where crevasses are beginning to open but remain manageable with proper travel techniques. After crossing the Cowlitz, climbers enter Ingraham Flats and encounter a short stretch of firm glacial ice, requiring solid crampon technique and confident footwork. The route then continues over three ladders, starting around 11,200’, before traversing toward the base of the Disappointment Cleaver. The Cleaver itself is currently dry and snow-free, allowing for straightforward movement.
Higher on the route, climbers will cross two additional ladders—one around 12,800’, followed by a final traverse near 13,000’ en route to the Crater Rim. Overall, the route is in prime midsummer condition, and we’re seeing a steady rhythm of teams topping out on Rainier under ideal climbing circumstances.
Emmons & Kautz Routes
Our final 4-day Kautz team made a summit attempt yesterday, turning around at 13,700 feet due to challenging route conditions and deteriorating weather. The team put in a strong effort and demonstrated sound judgment in making the call to descend. Over on the Emmons route, our last 8-day trip of the season is moving up to Camp Schurman today and will be making a summit attempt tomorrow, July 31st. The 2025 season has been one of our most successful in nearly a decade on both the Emmons and Kautz routes, with exceptionally high summit rates. This success is largely attributed to the stretch of stable and favorable weather we’ve experienced across the Pacific Northwest this summer, allowing for excellent climbing conditions and safer travel on the glaciers.
Looking ahead, our 2026 dates for both the Kautz and Emmons routes will be released this September alongside the full Mount Rainier climbing schedule. Be sure to sign up for our newsletter to get the announcement—spots fill quickly, and it’s the best way to make sure you don’t miss out when dates go live. You can sign up for our newsletter at the bottom of our website homepage.
Olympus, Glacier Peak, & Charity Climb Updates
Our recent Mount Olympus team checked in yesterday after successfully tagging the summit of this iconic and remote peak deep in the Olympic Mountains. As one of the most sought-after objectives in the range, standing on the summit of Olympus is no small feat—congrats to the team! In other good news, our recent Glacier Peak charity climb was also a success, with climbers reaching the summit and raising $16,900 for The Sophia Way, a Seattle-based nonprofit that provides shelter and services to women experiencing homelessness. A huge thank you to the climbers and donors who supported this important cause.
Mount Baker (Kulshan)
Our teams continue to have excellent success on Mount Baker, both on summit climbs and instructional courses. Glaciers remain in good shape for late July, with snow coverage still ideal for travel. Most teams are hiking in with trail shoes and transitioning to mountaineering boots at camp.
Conditions across the greater North Cascades remain favorable with teams recently summiting Mount Shuksan and making ascents in Washington Pass.
As always, please review your gear list carefully before your program and contact our office if you have questions about specific items or need recommendations.
